A Place of Serenity at Roketsu London

Roketsu by chef Daisuke Hayashi

In the heart of London’s Marylebone, Roketsu stands as a bastion of authentic Japanese culinary tradition. Since its opening in December 2021, it has captivated the city's gastronomes with its meticulous presentation and dedication to the art of kaiseki. Kaiseki, a traditional multi-course Japanese meal, is deeply rooted in seasonality, balance, and the celebration of natural flavors. Behind this culinary haven is Chef Daisuke Hayashi, whose journey from the port city of Kobe to the vibrant culinary landscape of London is as fascinating as the dishes he crafts. Born and raised in Kobe, Chef Hayashi’s culinary passion was ignited by his childhood experiences of fishing and cooking with his family. “My father took me fishing, and my mother was the key figure in cooking, sparking my interest,” he reminisces. This early connection to food set the stage for his training under the legendary Chef Yoshihiro Murata at Kikunoi Roan in Kyoto. Murata, a culinary icon, instilled in Hayashi the philosophy that "cooking is a science." This profound education immersed Hayashi in the world of kaiseki.

On a serene Friday afternoon in May, we ventured to Roketsu to experience its renowned gozen lunch menu. The restaurant's ambiance is a tribute to the elegance and simplicity of Japanese design. Every element, from the 100-year-old hinoki wood dining counter to the seasonal menu, reflects Hayashi’s dedication to creating an immersive dining experience that transports guests to the heart of Japan. “Roketsu is a place where guests can experience Japan through all five senses,” Hayashi explains.

Course 1: Sakizuke

Our afternoon at Roketsu started with the sakizuke, an exquisitely plated starter of yam, abalone, and wasabi. In kaiseki cuisine, the sakizuke serves as an appetizer, akin to an amuse-bouche in French cuisine, intended to awaken the palate. This dish set the tone for the entire meal, encapsulating the essence of kaiseki with its delicate balance of flavors and textures. The yam's subtle sweetness, the abalone's tender brininess, and the sharp kick of wasabi harmonized beautifully, creating a nuanced interplay of flavors that set the stage for the courses to come.

Reflecting on his culinary philosophy, Chef Hayashi shared, “The most important thing in cooking is to focus on umami.” This principle, deeply rooted in his formative years of cooking with his family, permeates every dish he creates. The sakizuke exemplifies this dedication to umami, showcasing how simple, high-quality ingredients can be elevated through meticulous preparation and a profound understanding of flavor.

Drawing inspiration from his experiences across Japan, Hayashi emphasizes the importance of seasonality and local ingredients. “Using fresh, local ingredients is crucial to my cooking,” he asserts. This commitment is evident in the sakizuke, where the quality of each ingredient shines through, offering a glimpse into the sophisticated world of kaiseki.

Course 2: Gozen

The centerpiece of our meal was the gozen, a traditional Japanese lunch set known for its variety and balance. In Japanese dining culture, gozen, meaning "honorable meal," is a multi-dish platter that typically includes an assortment of small dishes, each meticulously prepared to highlight seasonal ingredients. The gozen at Roketsu is no exception, presenting a stunning array of delicacies that showcase Chef Hayashi's mastery in balancing traditional techniques.

Each element in the box offered a unique taste experience, meticulously crafted with the season’s finest ingredients. The selection included house smoked chalk stream trout wrapped with pickled daikon radish, grilled scallop glazed with egg yolk, and rainbow chard seasoned with pine seeds. These dishes were accompanied by dashi simmered tomato, dried tofu, yellow courgette, carrot, and shimeji mushroom, illustrating Hayashi's dedication to simplicity and purity of flavor.

Reflecting on his culinary journey, Hayashi shared, “The essence of kaiseki is not just about the taste but also the story behind each ingredient.” This philosophy is evident in the gozen, where each dish is a celebration of the season, presenting the freshest ingredients in their most natural and harmonious form.

The yellowtail wrapped with kombu braised soy and the grilled duck seaweed with sweet soy were particularly memorable, offering a rich umami that lingered on the palate. The textures and flavors were perfectly balanced, providing a complex and satisfying experience that lingered long after each bite.

In the tranquil setting of Roketsu, the gozen serves as a narrative of the seasons. Every component, from the charcoal grilled brill marinated in shio-koji coated with cooked egg powder to the dashi seasoned egg omelette, tells a story of craftsmanship and an unwavering dedication to the art of kaiseki.

Course 3: Nimonowan

The third course, nimonowan, was an exploration of umami, featuring shincha-mushi, monkfish, egg, rainbow chard, green tea, and pink mizuna. In kaiseki, nimonowan refers to a lidded soup dish, often served with a delicate broth and seasonal ingredients that reflect the chef’s skill in simmering. This dish exemplified the depth and complexity that kaiseki cuisine can achieve. The delicate shincha-mushi, a type of savory custard, provided a smooth, velvety base, while the monkfish added a succulent, oceanic richness. The rainbow chard, green tea and pink mizuna contributed a subtle bitterness, balancing the dish’s flavor profile.

"Japanese cuisine has five fundamental cooking methods: grilling, frying, cutting, simmering, and steaming. Simmering is the most challenging," Hayashi notes. This complexity is masterfully showcased in the nimonowan, where the interplay of textures and flavors is orchestrated to perfection. The careful simmering of ingredients allows their natural umami to develop and harmonize, creating a dish that is both comforting and sophisticated.

Hayashi’s training under Chef Murata at Kikunoi Roan instilled in him the importance of these traditional techniques. “Simmering, in particular, requires a delicate touch and a deep understanding of ingredients,” he explains.

The meticulous preparation and the subtle layering of flavors and textures in the nimonowan highlighted Chef Hayashi’s skill and his dedication to preserving the integrity of kaiseki cuisine.

Course 4: Tempura

Our journey through kaiseki continued with the prawn and vegetables tempura, a dish that brought a delightful contrast to the previous courses. In the context of kaiseki, tempura is often included as a lighter, fried course that provides a textural contrast and adds a different flavor dimension to the meal. The light, airy batter and the delicate frying technique result in a dish that is both crisp and refined, highlighting the natural flavors of the ingredients without overwhelming them.

The prawns were succulent, their sweetness enhanced by a delicate batter that offered just the right amount of crunch. Accompanying vegetables, including tender asparagus and earthy mushrooms, were equally well-executed, each piece retaining its unique flavor and texture. The tempura was served with a glass bowl of steamed rice adorned with seasonal vegetables, fish, and a steam of fragrant yuzu enveloping you. The bowl of steamed rice complemented the tempura perfectly, adding an aromatic and fresh dimension to the dish.

"Simplicity in tempura requires precision," Hayashi explains. “Every ingredient must be fresh and treated with utmost care.” Despite the challenges of sourcing authentic Japanese ingredients in London, Hayashi remains committed to quality and authenticity. "If I can’t find the right soy sauce, I’ll make it myself," he asserts, illustrating his dedication to maintaining the integrity of his dishes. This meticulous approach ensures that every component of the tempura dish is of the highest standard, allowing the natural flavors of the ingredients to shine.

Course 5: Mizumono

The culmination of our kaiseki journey at Roketsu was the mizumono, a dessert course that provided a refreshing and elegant end to the meal, featuring a medley of seasonal fruits and a delicate ice cream, the mizumono. The fruits were impeccably fresh, their natural sweetness complemented by the creamy, subtly flavored ice cream..

Reflecting on his achievements and future aspirations, Hayashi humbly shared, "I don’t think much of the awards; I just focus on my daily work." Despite receiving numerous accolades, including being named a Japanese Cuisine Goodwill Ambassador, his dedication to his craft remains unwavering. “Meeting people and sharing my culture through food is what drives me,” he says.

In his free time, Chef Hayashi enjoys fishing, a pastime that brings him back to his roots and inspires his culinary creations. “Fishing allows me to connect with nature,” he reflects.

As our dining experience at Roketsu drew to a close with the elegant mizumono, it became clear that this was more than a meal; it was a journey to a place of serenity and balance. Each course, from the sakizuke to the mizumono, offered not just flavors but a narrative of peace and reflection. Chef Hayashi’s meticulous attention to detail and deep respect for tradition created an atmosphere where the stresses of the outside world faded away, replaced by a sense of calm and contentment.

Roketsu is not merely a restaurant but a sanctuary, a place where each meal is a culinary experience that transports diners to the tranquil heart of kaiseki. The harmonious blend of flavors, the meticulous preparation, and the serene ambiance all come together to create an unforgettable dining journey.

It is a place where diners are invited to find a sense of peace and tranquility that lingers long after the meal has ended.

Course 2: Gozen

The centerpiece of our meal was the gozen, a traditional Japanese lunch set known for its variety and balance. In Japanese dining culture, gozen, meaning "honorable meal," is a multi-dish platter that typically includes an assortment of small dishes, each meticulously prepared to highlight seasonal ingredients. The gozen at Roketsu is no exception, presenting a stunning array of delicacies that showcase Chef Hayashi's mastery in balancing traditional techniques.

Each element in the box offered a unique taste experience, meticulously crafted with the season’s finest ingredients. The selection included house smoked chalk stream trout wrapped with pickled daikon radish, grilled scallop glazed with egg yolk, and rainbow chard seasoned with pine seeds. These dishes were accompanied by dashi simmered tomato, dried tofu, yellow courgette, carrot, and shimeji mushroom, illustrating Hayashi's dedication to simplicity and purity of flavor.

Reflecting on his culinary journey, Hayashi shared, “The essence of kaiseki is not just about the taste but also the story behind each ingredient.” This philosophy is evident in the gozen, where each dish is a celebration of the season, presenting the freshest ingredients in their most natural and harmonious form.

The yellowtail wrapped with kombu braised soy and the grilled duck seaweed with sweet soy were particularly memorable, offering a rich umami that lingered on the palate. The textures and flavors were perfectly balanced, providing a complex and satisfying experience that lingered long after each bite.

In the tranquil setting of Roketsu, the gozen serves as a narrative of the seasons. Every component, from the charcoal grilled brill marinated in shio-koji coated with cooked egg powder to the dashi seasoned egg omelette, tells a story of craftsmanship and an unwavering dedication to the art of kaiseki.

Course 2: Gozen

The centerpiece of our meal was the gozen, a traditional Japanese lunch set known for its variety and balance. In Japanese dining culture, gozen, meaning "honorable meal," is a multi-dish platter that typically includes an assortment of small dishes, each meticulously prepared to highlight seasonal ingredients. The gozen at Roketsu is no exception, presenting a stunning array of delicacies that showcase Chef Hayashi's mastery in balancing traditional techniques.

Each element in the box offered a unique taste experience, meticulously crafted with the season’s finest ingredients. The selection included house smoked chalk stream trout wrapped with pickled daikon radish, grilled scallop glazed with egg yolk, and rainbow chard seasoned with pine seeds. These dishes were accompanied by dashi simmered tomato, dried tofu, yellow courgette, carrot, and shimeji mushroom, illustrating Hayashi's dedication to simplicity and purity of flavor.

Reflecting on his culinary journey, Hayashi shared, “The essence of kaiseki is not just about the taste but also the story behind each ingredient.” This philosophy is evident in the gozen, where each dish is a celebration of the season, presenting the freshest ingredients in their most natural and harmonious form.

The yellowtail wrapped with kombu braised soy and the grilled duck seaweed with sweet soy were particularly memorable, offering a rich umami that lingered on the palate. The textures and flavors were perfectly balanced, providing a complex and satisfying experience that lingered long after each bite.

In the tranquil setting of Roketsu, the gozen serves as a narrative of the seasons. Every component, from the charcoal grilled brill marinated in shio-koji coated with cooked egg powder to the dashi seasoned egg omelette, tells a story of craftsmanship and an unwavering dedication to the art of kaiseki.

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