In the vast mosaic of contemporary art, few realms captivate with as much dynamism and allure as fashion photography. It is a domain where aesthetics and narratives entwine, evoking emotions, ideologies, and cultural imprints. Yet, while the end results — the photographs — often shimmer with clarity and poise, the journeys that birth them remain obscured, layered in complexities, introspections, and serendipities. Enter the world of Bohdan Bohdanov, a maestro whose lens has captured more than just sartorial elegance; it has charted a deeply personal and reflective odyssey. As we delve into Bohdan's artistic psyche and experiences, we are offered not just a window into his evolution but also a mirror reflecting the broader nuances of fashion, art, and identity in our times.
In the vast mosaic of contemporary art, few realms captivate with as much dynamism and allure as fashion photography. It is a domain where aesthetics and narratives entwine, evoking emotions, ideologies, and cultural imprints. Yet, while the end results — the photographs — often shimmer with clarity and poise, the journeys that birth them remain obscured, layered in complexities, introspections, and serendipities. Enter the world of Bohdan Bohdanov, a maestro whose lens has captured more than just sartorial elegance; it has charted a deeply personal and reflective odyssey. As we delve into Bohdan's artistic psyche and experiences, we are offered not just a window into his evolution but also a mirror reflecting the broader nuances of fashion, art, and identity in our times.
In the vast mosaic of contemporary art, few realms captivate with as much dynamism and allure as fashion photography. It is a domain where aesthetics and narratives entwine, evoking emotions, ideologies, and cultural imprints. Yet, while the end results — the photographs — often shimmer with clarity and poise, the journeys that birth them remain obscured, layered in complexities, introspections, and serendipities. Enter the world of Bohdan Bohdanov, a maestro whose lens has captured more than just sartorial elegance; it has charted a deeply personal and reflective odyssey. As we delve into Bohdan's artistic psyche and experiences, we are offered not just a window into his evolution but also a mirror reflecting the broader nuances of fashion, art, and identity in our times.
ON: CHILDHOOD CURIOSITIES
In the expansive canvas of the art sphere, personal stories often become the compass guiding an artist's exploratory journey. For Bohdan, this compass was intricately calibrated by a fusion of adverse conditions and fortuitous discoveries.
How did you first venture into the world of fashion photography, and what drew you to this particular genre?
"I spent my childhood in a tiny mining town in Ukraine, belonging to a humble family with an income that was less than average. My journey into photography began unexpectedly when I was 13. I saw a story on TV about artists using the 'freeze-light' technique, and it captivated me. After finishing school, I joined the Academy of Culture and Arts. During my first year, I met people who ran a local fashion magazine and they hired me as their photographer. That's how I got my initial exposure to fashion photography. However, my life took a drastic turn on my 18th birthday when war broke out in my city."
Tracing Bohdan's evolution, we witness a transformative story. Growing up in a modest environment in Ukraine, the worlds of art and fashion seemed distant dreams for young Bohdan. Yet, a serendipitous television encounter with a photography technique sparked a fervent interest in him. Choosing the quiet allure of deserted streets over the typical pursuits of his contemporaries, Bohdan discovered solace and self-expression in photography. This newfound passion culminated in formal training, and his academic stint serendipitously ushered him into the echelons of fashion photography. However, as his career trajectory pointed upwards, geopolitical turbulence threw unforeseen challenges in his path, accentuating the grit and perseverance that hallmark his journey.
ON: TRANSCENDING TECHNIQUE
In the sprawling domain of artistic creation, the essence of a piece is often not just in its form but in its soul. Especially in fashion photography, where transient moments are crystallized, the spirit of the subject is as significant as its presentation. For Bohdan, the dance between palpable technique and intangible emotion underpins his illustrious works.
Can you share some of the key principles or techniques that define your unique style as a fashion photographer?
"I never really focus on the technical stuff. I lean on my feelings and my vision. I am spontaneous, dynamic and impulsive in my art. I love contrasts in all forms. I don't compromise. I am not into difficult post-production or special effects. Everything I see or create is realistic - even if it might look like an explosion of a unicorn in a fashion fairytale."
Diving into Bohdan's creative ethos reveals an artist driven more by intuition than by instruction. Prioritizing the pulse of emotion over prescribed techniques, he crafts imagery that is as spontaneous as it is impactful. His preference for contrasts, whether in subject or sentiment, provides depth and dynamism to his work. By consciously sidestepping intricate post-production while embracing moments of surreal brilliance, he ensures his work remains anchored in reality, even when it flirts with fantasy. At the heart of Bohdan's approach is an unwavering commitment to authenticity, elegantly weaving the fantastical with the genuine in each frame.
ON: INTROSPECTION IN IMAGERY
Every artistic endeavour carries a trace of its creator, an imprint that gives the art its unique identity. Often, this extends beyond mere technique, evolving into a complex blend of the creator's past experiences and present perceptions. For fashion photographers, this infusion of personal narratives provides depth and dimension to their imagery. Bohdan's portfolio, resplendent with intimate tales and reflections, exemplifies this interweaving of inner sentiment with outward expression.
What role does storytelling play in your fashion photography, and how do you incorporate narrative elements into your images?
"The core of my art is storytelling. Usually, it’s a story of myself, my childhood, my experiences and emotions. It's hard for me to explain exactly how I incorporate elements of narrative into the frame because it's directly related to my own associations and experiences. Empirically intuitive... Like a phrase from a song that I've filled with my own interpretation. Or a memory I’ve captured in a frame. 'What do I feel when I see it? When I was in a similar situation? How do I recall it? What do these memories look like? What's my evaluation of it? Where have I seen something like this, maybe in a movie or a painting?' — These are the basic questions I keep asking myself. I love dissecting every experience I have. This practice creates my personal stash of visual 'easter eggs' that I can use in my work."
Upon examining Bohdan's ethos, it's evident that his creations are not simply images; they're portals into his soul. These visuals encapsulate personal milestones, feelings, and memories, resonating with autobiographical undertones. By weaving his life's tapestry into his work, Bohdan ensures each photograph narrates not just a model's poise but also anecdotes of his life's journey. This organic narrative approach, built on introspection rather than instruction, showcases his belief in the fluidity of artistic storytelling. Continuously revisiting and reflecting on personal and cultural experiences, Bohdan amasses a repertoire of 'visual easter eggs,' subtly interspersed in his oeuvre. Through this, Bohdan's craft becomes more than just photography; it's a mosaic of his myriad memories and musings.
ON: CRAFTING HARMONY
Behind every arresting frame in fashion photography lies a meticulous choreography of thought, emotion, and collective enterprise. Crafting an image is akin to painting on a canvas where each stroke, be it bold or subtle, results from both singular vision and collaborative harmony. For Bohdan, this process unfolds like a carefully crafted symphony, where each note, whether whispered by introspection or echoed by a chorus of collaboration, contributes to the grand opus.
How do you approach creating a concept or mood for a fashion shoot, and how do you ensure that your vision is effectively communicated to the team?
"If we're talking about profound concepts, the most important thing for me is to have enough time to live inside them. So I shoot them once or twice a year. Usually, I catch a glimpse. Initially, this idea is very abstract. It’s like a puzzle, some pieces come together and I am starting to see the first sparks of the idea in my consciousness. And I mix in my daily routine with those sparks. After that, I start a mood board. First of all, I create the text of the story I want to tell. My knowledge of authors, aesthetics, and trends helps a lot. During this time I add details and replace them. Some things are added, and some are removed in order to become more complex, ambiguous, and multi-layered. After I present this mood board to the team, they can add their own interpretation of the concept. It is a fundamentally important point for me: to see the unique touch of each team member in my work."
Peeling back the layers of Bohdan's methodology reveals a profound blend of self-reflection and teamwork. His early ideation stages mirror the assembly of a jigsaw puzzle, with disparate inspirations slowly coalescing into a coherent vision. Yet, like the patient craftsmanship behind an expertly mixed cocktail, Bohdan's concepts mature over time, gradually integrating insights from daily life. His emphasis on detailed planning, underscored by exhaustive mood boards and textual narratives, is a testament to his dedication. Nevertheless, while his vision serves as the guiding lighthouse, Bohdan cherishes the hues and shades introduced by his team, celebrating their unique interpretations. In this delicate balance between personal intention and collective input, Bohdan's creations emerge as harmonized masterpieces of shared artistry.
ON: TRANSCENDING AESTHETICS
Fashion photography, at its core, isn't merely a juxtaposition of model, moment, and milieu. It is the art of elevating garments into powerful symbols, with each designer's unique aesthetic serving as a compelling muse. For a photographer, these designers don't just inform a perspective; they often transform it. For Bohdan, this transformative influence emanates from a select few iconic brands that harmonize with and amplify, his own artistic sensibilities.
Are there any specific fashion designers or brands that you find particularly inspiring, and how do their aesthetics influence your work?
"Schiaparelli, Richard Quinn, Iris Van Herpen - these fashion brands inspire me the most. In them, I see an absolute relevance to my photography and my sense of beauty. I'm a big fan of surrealism, dynamics, and shape in clothes."
A deep dive into Bohdan's inspirations reveals an unequivocal affinity for the groundbreaking and the imaginative. Brands like Schiaparelli, with its unapologetic dalliance with surrealism; Richard Quinn, renowned for its vibrant dynamism; and Iris Van Herpen, synonymous with avant-garde structural designs, align poetically with Bohdan's own ethos. Their shared passion for pushing boundaries and challenging conventions makes these designers not just external inspirations but essential components of Bohdan's visual language, enriching the layers and nuances of his captures.
ON: RESILIENCE REFLECTED
In the shimmering universe of fashion photography, every captured frame hides a saga — not merely of the muse or the motif, but of the maestro, their endeavours, and the myriad challenges they surmount during the artistic odyssey. At times, these tales echo global events, while on other occasions, they narrate profound personal transformations. For Bohdan, a significant Milanese shoot epitomizes this duality, interweaving his individual trajectory with the demanding intricacies of the fashion domain.
Can you tell us about a memorable or challenging fashion shoot you've had and how you navigated the obstacles to create a successful outcome?
"I'd point out the shoot we did in September 2022 for the Fall art issue of L’Officiel Italia in Milan. It was my first major project after the Russian military invasion of Ukraine and my forced emigration. This was a complex concept close to my heart, where we pay tribute to Marc Chagall and at the same time, it was a story about my psychotherapy and meeting my true self. The biggest challenge for me in this shoot was facing the real world of fashion and its complexities and rules. I told myself that I would never open up to the world deeply until I gained enough influence and choice to be above all else. But everything changed when I held the magazine in my hands. The creating process and shooting allowed me to see the peculiarities of different shades of my psyche. I realized that I have to overcome obstacles to achieve the best results. Especially through suffering. This is a point of growth and one of a kind of sublimation."
The Lofficiel Italia assignment wasn't merely another shoot for Bohdan; it embodied a deeply poignant narrative. Positioned against his upheaval due to geopolitical turmoil, this project bore both a homage to Marc Chagall and the unveiling of Bohdan's introspective journey. Navigating through the stringencies of the fashion realm — from intricate clothing choices to overarching brand mandates — posed significant challenges. Yet, the culmination of his vision in the published magazine pages was a metamorphic moment. It reinforced his belief that personal tales can carve their niche even amidst the stringent contours of the fashion world. Above all, this endeavour spotlighted Bohdan's unwavering faith in the transformative essence of art, especially when birthed from challenges. Through this endeavour, he crafted not just visuals but immortalized a testament of endurance, growth, and artistic rebirth.
ON: ARTISTRY
Within an artist's oeuvre, recurring motifs often arise, echoing like resonant chords in a melodic composition. These motifs, though articulated distinctively, signal a profound thematic exploration, rooted deeply in the artist's psyche. In Bohdan's vast array of fashion narratives, an archetype of a woman consistently surfaces, acting as both an enigma and a reflection of profound personal nuances.
Are there any recurring themes or concepts that you often explore in your fashion photography, and what draws you to these particular ideas?
"I identify my photography as tense, surrealistic, otherworldly, and ephemeral. I'm drawn to the same idea of a woman: strong, mysteriously magnetic, cool-headed, and unreachable. I meet her in every story I shoot. Who is this woman? Could it be my cold mother? You know—much to dig into here."
Bohdan's delineation of his work – with descriptors like "tense, surrealistic, otherworldly, and ephemeral" – evokes images that dance on the edges of reality, delving into spaces beyond the mundane. Central to this otherworldly tapestry stands a consistent feminine figure: a paradigm of strength, enigma, and captivating aloofness. This recurring muse, seemingly an interplay of allure and detachment, might be rooted in deep-seated memories, perhaps reflective of past familial ties, as intimated by his ponderings on a "cold mother." This confluence of personal experiences and artistic endeavours offers a glimpse into Bohdan's layered psyche, showcasing how intimate reverberations can intricately shape and magnify one's creative expressions.
ON: MODERN FASHION
Fashion, forever in flux, requires its denizens to continually adjust their sails, harnessing the winds of change. Keeping pace with the metamorphosing trends isn't merely about tracking them; it's an exercise in discerning the current societal pulse, while simultaneously casting an anticipatory gaze into the horizon.
How do you stay updated with the latest trends and developments in the fashion industry, and how do you incorporate them into your work while maintaining your unique perspective?
"Nowadays we don’t need to put any effort to stay updated. We are surrounded by information like never before. In my case, fashion shows and campaigns are my main source. I observe how it transforms from one form to another and immediately try to associate it with the state of society, the world, and my own vision, in order to understand why we need this exactly today. Usually, I feel many trends in advance, but it seems to me it happens to us all because that's how the world works—it gives us feedback on ourselves."
In Bohdan's perspective, the omnipresence of information in our digital era shapes our viewpoints, sometimes in ways we might not even consciously perceive. But rather than being a passive receptor, Bohdan critically engages, linking fashion trends to larger societal shifts, global dynamics, and personal introspections. This nuanced approach, which often allows him to preemptively sense upcoming trends, showcases his deep immersion in the fashion world. His belief that the world reflects our internalities suggests a profound interplay between individuality and collective ethos. In Bohdan's navigation of the fashion zeitgeist, he stands as both a sentinel and a seer, intuitively channelling and contributing to the evolving sartorial symphony.
ON: ECHOES OF THE SELF
The vast canvas of creative inspirations often varies among artists, with some gazing outwardly towards the world's tangible beauty and others embarking on introspective voyages within. For Bohdan, this inward journey reveals a reservoir of self-reflection and emotional exploration, positioning his personal experiences as the bedrock of his artistic endeavours.
Outside of fashion, what other sources of inspiration influence your photography, whether it's art, music, literature, or any other form of creative expression?
"To be honest, I have always been sceptical of this question. There is nothing specific. I love visual arts, sculpture, and electro-music. But I manifest evanescence on the fingertips. So literally I can catch the sparkle and blaze it out. I inspire myself—I am lost and found in the labyrinth of my own veins."
In his reflections, Bohdan hints at a nuanced relationship with inspiration. While he appreciates external forms of artistic expression, it's the fleeting, momentary sensations—those transient sparkles—that truly kindle his creativity. His description of himself as navigating the "labyrinth of his veins" paints a vivid picture of an artist perpetually in communion with his own essence, experiences, and emotions. This constant interplay between self-discovery and artistic creation ensures that each of Bohdan's works stands as a deeply personal testament to his inner world.
ON: ARTISTIC INTEGRITY AND COMMERCIAL APPEAL
Fashion photography presents a unique theatre where raw, artistic expression intersects with the exacting demands of commerce. Here, the camera isn't just a vessel for the soul's musings but also a conduit for brand stories and market-driven narratives. Harmonizing these seemingly divergent aspirations is a dance of finesse, a choreography that Bohdan has mastered through a philosophy rooted in authenticity and adaptability.
As a fashion photographer, how do you find a balance between expressing your artistic vision and satisfying the commercial demands and expectations of brands and clients?
"Generally, I hate the idea of the verb 'must.' When I reached my 18th birthday, I swore to myself that I would never ever waste a dime or a second of myself on anything that wasn’t a matter of my own interest or inspiration. I connect easily to a project if it’s thrilling me. It might be the brand philosophy, the product a brand sells, or the personality. My mind is flexible so I can dive all into the idea. I see the huge potential in the unknown and how I can look, grow and shine in that. The best result you get is when you truly love yourself and what you do in the process."
Bohdan's journey paints a vivid picture of an artist fiercely protective of his autonomy, a sentiment seeded in his early years. Rejecting the confines of external compulsions, he pledges allegiance to projects that align with his passions, whether they're defined by brand ethos, product allure, or magnetic collaborators. This malleability ensures that his work is not a mere transaction but an exploration, where even within commercial parameters, his signature touch prevails. At the heart of his ethos is a profound reverence for self and craft. It's this reverence that allows Bohdan to craft works that are not only commercially successful but also deeply imbued with his singular spirit.
ON: SELF-EXPLORATION
Fashion, while frequently viewed as the domain of exteriority, is often a deeply introspective space for those who immerse themselves in its realm. Beyond the texture, hue, and design lies a labyrinth of personal narratives, societal reflections, and cultural commentaries. For Bohdan, fashion isn't merely an occupation; it's an odyssey—a continuous journey of self-discovery and societal observation.
What does fashion mean to you and how does it play a role in your work?
"I adore couture. High fashion is a form of art I appreciate to the bones. I like to observe when 'the dress becomes a manifest' and the way of expression. I love this multiplayer-ness of deep sense running through collections. I love to see how fashion influences everything around us: social life and it helps us to explore new in ourselves. So if my work is fashion, my life is definitely too. Even we leave the commercial aspect aside. I do photography because I am investigating myself, and my authenticity, but the biggest fashion trend now is to be yourself, isn't it?"
For Bohdan, haute couture isn't just the pinnacle of fashion; it's the epitome of artistic expression. Each ensemble, in his eyes, is not just cloth and thread but a manifest—a statement carrying weight and wisdom. He finds beauty in the multi-layered narratives woven through fashion lines, observing their societal impacts and the self-revelations they offer. His work, interwoven with fashion, reflects the fabric of his life, emphasizing the inextricable link between the two. Yet, amidst all these reflections, Bohdan highlights an enduring truth: that today's preeminent fashion statement is one's authenticity, mirroring his personal quest for genuine self-expression within the dynamic world of fashion.
ON: GUIDING PRINCIPLES
The realm of fashion photography is as much a strategic battleground as it is a canvas for creativity. Aspiring maestros embarking on this journey often seek a compass, a beacon to illuminate their path amidst the overwhelming vistas of established brilliance.
What advice would you give to aspiring fashion photographers who are looking to make their mark in the industry, based on your own experiences and journey?
"To explore the world around them, to be attentive and sensitive to their own experiences. That gives authenticity, which the world desperately needs. Also, I’d say as in - 'Fundamentals of Chess 1883' - 'The only way to get smarter is by playing a smarter opponent.' Sometimes we are opponents to ourselves and art is like an endless chess game - you have to trick even yourself to find a way, to grow, to win."
From Bohdan's sagacious words, a clear directive emerges for budding photographers: to be authentic, to be deeply observant, and to value their individual experiences. By advocating the cultivation of authenticity, he underscores its timeless relevance in a world often veering towards the superficial. Yet, his allusion to the game of chess provides a nuanced dimension to his advice. It hints at the importance of perpetual self-challenge and introspection, suggesting that the greatest milestones are achieved when one confronts and surpasses internal barriers. Through his lens, the artistic journey becomes a relentless chess match of self against self, where victory lies in constant evolution and introspective strategy.
Bohdan Bohdanov's journey in the realm of fashion photography is a testament to the intricate confluence of personal narratives, artistic aspirations, and societal reflections. Through the lens of his experiences and insights, we've traversed not just the technicalities of his craft, but the profound emotional and philosophical underpinnings that anchor his work. His narrative echoes the universal struggles and triumphs of artists everywhere — the ceaseless quest for authenticity, the dance of passion with pragmatism, and the undying drive to communicate, to express, to resonate.
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In the vast mosaic of contemporary art, few realms captivate with as much dynamism and allure as fashion photography. It is a domain where aesthetics and narratives entwine, evoking emotions, ideologies, and cultural imprints. Yet, while the end results — the photographs — often shimmer with clarity and poise, the journeys that birth them remain obscured, layered in complexities, introspections, and serendipities. Enter the world of Bohdan Bohdanov, a maestro whose lens has captured more than just sartorial elegance; it has charted a deeply personal and reflective odyssey. As we delve into Bohdan's artistic psyche and experiences, we are offered not just a window into his evolution but also a mirror reflecting the broader nuances of fashion, art, and identity in our times.
ON: CHILDHOOD CURIOSITIES
In the expansive canvas of the art sphere, personal stories often become the compass guiding an artist's exploratory journey. For Bohdan, this compass was intricately calibrated by a fusion of adverse conditions and fortuitous discoveries.
How did you first venture into the world of fashion photography, and what drew you to this particular genre?
"I spent my childhood in a tiny mining town in Ukraine, belonging to a humble family with an income that was less than average. My journey into photography began unexpectedly when I was 13. I saw a story on TV about artists using the 'freeze-light' technique, and it captivated me. After finishing school, I joined the Academy of Culture and Arts. During my first year, I met people who ran a local fashion magazine and they hired me as their photographer. That's how I got my initial exposure to fashion photography. However, my life took a drastic turn on my 18th birthday when war broke out in my city."
Tracing Bohdan's evolution, we witness a transformative story. Growing up in a modest environment in Ukraine, the worlds of art and fashion seemed distant dreams for young Bohdan. Yet, a serendipitous television encounter with a photography technique sparked a fervent interest in him. Choosing the quiet allure of deserted streets over the typical pursuits of his contemporaries, Bohdan discovered solace and self-expression in photography. This newfound passion culminated in formal training, and his academic stint serendipitously ushered him into the echelons of fashion photography. However, as his career trajectory pointed upwards, geopolitical turbulence threw unforeseen challenges in his path, accentuating the grit and perseverance that hallmark his journey.
ON: TRANSCENDING TECHNIQUE
In the sprawling domain of artistic creation, the essence of a piece is often not just in its form but in its soul. Especially in fashion photography, where transient moments are crystallized, the spirit of the subject is as significant as its presentation. For Bohdan, the dance between palpable technique and intangible emotion underpins his illustrious works.
Can you share some of the key principles or techniques that define your unique style as a fashion photographer?
"I never really focus on the technical stuff. I lean on my feelings and my vision. I am spontaneous, dynamic and impulsive in my art. I love contrasts in all forms. I don't compromise. I am not into difficult post-production or special effects. Everything I see or create is realistic - even if it might look like an explosion of a unicorn in a fashion fairytale."
Diving into Bohdan's creative ethos reveals an artist driven more by intuition than by instruction. Prioritizing the pulse of emotion over prescribed techniques, he crafts imagery that is as spontaneous as it is impactful. His preference for contrasts, whether in subject or sentiment, provides depth and dynamism to his work. By consciously sidestepping intricate post-production while embracing moments of surreal brilliance, he ensures his work remains anchored in reality, even when it flirts with fantasy. At the heart of Bohdan's approach is an unwavering commitment to authenticity, elegantly weaving the fantastical with the genuine in each frame.
ON: ARTISTRY
Within an artist's oeuvre, recurring motifs often arise, echoing like resonant chords in a melodic composition. These motifs, though articulated distinctively, signal a profound thematic exploration, rooted deeply in the artist's psyche. In Bohdan's vast array of fashion narratives, an archetype of a woman consistently surfaces, acting as both an enigma and a reflection of profound personal nuances.
Are there any recurring themes or concepts that you often explore in your fashion photography, and what draws you to these particular ideas?
"I identify my photography as tense, surrealistic, otherworldly, and ephemeral. I'm drawn to the same idea of a woman: strong, mysteriously magnetic, cool-headed, and unreachable. I meet her in every story I shoot. Who is this woman? Could it be my cold mother? You know—much to dig into here."
Bohdan's delineation of his work – with descriptors like "tense, surrealistic, otherworldly, and ephemeral" – evokes images that dance on the edges of reality, delving into spaces beyond the mundane. Central to this otherworldly tapestry stands a consistent feminine figure: a paradigm of strength, enigma, and captivating aloofness. This recurring muse, seemingly an interplay of allure and detachment, might be rooted in deep-seated memories, perhaps reflective of past familial ties, as intimated by his ponderings on a "cold mother." This confluence of personal experiences and artistic endeavours offers a glimpse into Bohdan's layered psyche, showcasing how intimate reverberations can intricately shape and magnify one's creative expressions.
ON: MODERN FASHION
Fashion, forever in flux, requires its denizens to continually adjust their sails, harnessing the winds of change. Keeping pace with the metamorphosing trends isn't merely about tracking them; it's an exercise in discerning the current societal pulse, while simultaneously casting an anticipatory gaze into the horizon.
How do you stay updated with the latest trends and developments in the fashion industry, and how do you incorporate them into your work while maintaining your unique perspective?
"Nowadays we don’t need to put any effort to stay updated. We are surrounded by information like never before. In my case, fashion shows and campaigns are my main source. I observe how it transforms from one form to another and immediately try to associate it with the state of society, the world, and my own vision, in order to understand why we need this exactly today. Usually, I feel many trends in advance, but it seems to me it happens to us all because that's how the world works—it gives us feedback on ourselves."
In Bohdan's perspective, the omnipresence of information in our digital era shapes our viewpoints, sometimes in ways we might not even consciously perceive. But rather than being a passive receptor, Bohdan critically engages, linking fashion trends to larger societal shifts, global dynamics, and personal introspections. This nuanced approach, which often allows him to preemptively sense upcoming trends, showcases his deep immersion in the fashion world. His belief that the world reflects our internalities suggests a profound interplay between individuality and collective ethos. In Bohdan's navigation of the fashion zeitgeist, he stands as both a sentinel and a seer, intuitively channelling and contributing to the evolving sartorial symphony.
ON: INTROSPECTION IN IMAGERY
Every artistic endeavour carries a trace of its creator, an imprint that gives the art its unique identity. Often, this extends beyond mere technique, evolving into a complex blend of the creator's past experiences and present perceptions. For fashion photographers, this infusion of personal narratives provides depth and dimension to their imagery. Bohdan's portfolio, resplendent with intimate tales and reflections, exemplifies this interweaving of inner sentiment with outward expression.
What role does storytelling play in your fashion photography, and how do you incorporate narrative elements into your images?
"The core of my art is storytelling. Usually, it’s a story of myself, my childhood, my experiences and emotions. It's hard for me to explain exactly how I incorporate elements of narrative into the frame because it's directly related to my own associations and experiences. Empirically intuitive... Like a phrase from a song that I've filled with my own interpretation. Or a memory I’ve captured in a frame. 'What do I feel when I see it? When I was in a similar situation? How do I recall it? What do these memories look like? What's my evaluation of it? Where have I seen something like this, maybe in a movie or a painting?' — These are the basic questions I keep asking myself. I love dissecting every experience I have. This practice creates my personal stash of visual 'easter eggs' that I can use in my work."
Upon examining Bohdan's ethos, it's evident that his creations are not simply images; they're portals into his soul. These visuals encapsulate personal milestones, feelings, and memories, resonating with autobiographical undertones. By weaving his life's tapestry into his work, Bohdan ensures each photograph narrates not just a model's poise but also anecdotes of his life's journey. This organic narrative approach, built on introspection rather than instruction, showcases his belief in the fluidity of artistic storytelling. Continuously revisiting and reflecting on personal and cultural experiences, Bohdan amasses a repertoire of 'visual easter eggs,' subtly interspersed in his oeuvre. Through this, Bohdan's craft becomes more than just photography; it's a mosaic of his myriad memories and musings.
ON: CRAFTING HARMONY
Behind every arresting frame in fashion photography lies a meticulous choreography of thought, emotion, and collective enterprise. Crafting an image is akin to painting on a canvas where each stroke, be it bold or subtle, results from both singular vision and collaborative harmony. For Bohdan, this process unfolds like a carefully crafted symphony, where each note, whether whispered by introspection or echoed by a chorus of collaboration, contributes to the grand opus.
How do you approach creating a concept or mood for a fashion shoot, and how do you ensure that your vision is effectively communicated to the team?
"If we're talking about profound concepts, the most important thing for me is to have enough time to live inside them. So I shoot them once or twice a year. Usually, I catch a glimpse. Initially, this idea is very abstract. It’s like a puzzle, some pieces come together and I am starting to see the first sparks of the idea in my consciousness. And I mix in my daily routine with those sparks. After that, I start a mood board. First of all, I create the text of the story I want to tell. My knowledge of authors, aesthetics, and trends helps a lot. During this time I add details and replace them. Some things are added, and some are removed in order to become more complex, ambiguous, and multi-layered. After I present this mood board to the team, they can add their own interpretation of the concept. It is a fundamentally important point for me: to see the unique touch of each team member in my work."
Peeling back the layers of Bohdan's methodology reveals a profound blend of self-reflection and teamwork. His early ideation stages mirror the assembly of a jigsaw puzzle, with disparate inspirations slowly coalescing into a coherent vision. Yet, like the patient craftsmanship behind an expertly mixed cocktail, Bohdan's concepts mature over time, gradually integrating insights from daily life. His emphasis on detailed planning, underscored by exhaustive mood boards and textual narratives, is a testament to his dedication. Nevertheless, while his vision serves as the guiding lighthouse, Bohdan cherishes the hues and shades introduced by his team, celebrating their unique interpretations. In this delicate balance between personal intention and collective input, Bohdan's creations emerge as harmonized masterpieces of shared artistry.
ON: ECHOES OF THE SELF
The vast canvas of creative inspirations often varies among artists, with some gazing outwardly towards the world's tangible beauty and others embarking on introspective voyages within. For Bohdan, this inward journey reveals a reservoir of self-reflection and emotional exploration, positioning his personal experiences as the bedrock of his artistic endeavours.
Outside of fashion, what other sources of inspiration influence your photography, whether it's art, music, literature, or any other form of creative expression?
"To be honest, I have always been sceptical of this question. There is nothing specific. I love visual arts, sculpture, and electro-music. But I manifest evanescence on the fingertips. So literally I can catch the sparkle and blaze it out. I inspire myself—I am lost and found in the labyrinth of my own veins."
In his reflections, Bohdan hints at a nuanced relationship with inspiration. While he appreciates external forms of artistic expression, it's the fleeting, momentary sensations—those transient sparkles—that truly kindle his creativity. His description of himself as navigating the "labyrinth of his veins" paints a vivid picture of an artist perpetually in communion with his own essence, experiences, and emotions. This constant interplay between self-discovery and artistic creation ensures that each of Bohdan's works stands as a deeply personal testament to his inner world.
ON: ARTISTIC INTEGRITY AND COMMERCIAL APPEAL
Fashion photography presents a unique theatre where raw, artistic expression intersects with the exacting demands of commerce. Here, the camera isn't just a vessel for the soul's musings but also a conduit for brand stories and market-driven narratives. Harmonizing these seemingly divergent aspirations is a dance of finesse, a choreography that Bohdan has mastered through a philosophy rooted in authenticity and adaptability.
As a fashion photographer, how do you find a balance between expressing your artistic vision and satisfying the commercial demands and expectations of brands and clients?
"Generally, I hate the idea of the verb 'must.' When I reached my 18th birthday, I swore to myself that I would never ever waste a dime or a second of myself on anything that wasn’t a matter of my own interest or inspiration. I connect easily to a project if it’s thrilling me. It might be the brand philosophy, the product a brand sells, or the personality. My mind is flexible so I can dive all into the idea. I see the huge potential in the unknown and how I can look, grow and shine in that. The best result you get is when you truly love yourself and what you do in the process."
Bohdan's journey paints a vivid picture of an artist fiercely protective of his autonomy, a sentiment seeded in his early years. Rejecting the confines of external compulsions, he pledges allegiance to projects that align with his passions, whether they're defined by brand ethos, product allure, or magnetic collaborators. This malleability ensures that his work is not a mere transaction but an exploration, where even within commercial parameters, his signature touch prevails. At the heart of his ethos is a profound reverence for self and craft. It's this reverence that allows Bohdan to craft works that are not only commercially successful but also deeply imbued with his singular spirit.
ON: TRANSCENDING AESTHETICS
Fashion photography, at its core, isn't merely a juxtaposition of model, moment, and milieu. It is the art of elevating garments into powerful symbols, with each designer's unique aesthetic serving as a compelling muse. For a photographer, these designers don't just inform a perspective; they often transform it. For Bohdan, this transformative influence emanates from a select few iconic brands that harmonize with and amplify, his own artistic sensibilities.
Are there any specific fashion designers or brands that you find particularly inspiring, and how do their aesthetics influence your work?
"Schiaparelli, Richard Quinn, Iris Van Herpen - these fashion brands inspire me the most. In them, I see an absolute relevance to my photography and my sense of beauty. I'm a big fan of surrealism, dynamics, and shape in clothes."
A deep dive into Bohdan's inspirations reveals an unequivocal affinity for the groundbreaking and the imaginative. Brands like Schiaparelli, with its unapologetic dalliance with surrealism; Richard Quinn, renowned for its vibrant dynamism; and Iris Van Herpen, synonymous with avant-garde structural designs, align poetically with Bohdan's own ethos. Their shared passion for pushing boundaries and challenging conventions makes these designers not just external inspirations but essential components of Bohdan's visual language, enriching the layers and nuances of his captures.
ON: RESILIENCE REFLECTED
In the shimmering universe of fashion photography, every captured frame hides a saga — not merely of the muse or the motif, but of the maestro, their endeavours, and the myriad challenges they surmount during the artistic odyssey. At times, these tales echo global events, while on other occasions, they narrate profound personal transformations. For Bohdan, a significant Milanese shoot epitomizes this duality, interweaving his individual trajectory with the demanding intricacies of the fashion domain.
Can you tell us about a memorable or challenging fashion shoot you've had and how you navigated the obstacles to create a successful outcome?
"I'd point out the shoot we did in September 2022 for the Fall art issue of L’Officiel Italia in Milan. It was my first major project after the Russian military invasion of Ukraine and my forced emigration. This was a complex concept close to my heart, where we pay tribute to Marc Chagall and at the same time, it was a story about my psychotherapy and meeting my true self. The biggest challenge for me in this shoot was facing the real world of fashion and its complexities and rules. I told myself that I would never open up to the world deeply until I gained enough influence and choice to be above all else. But everything changed when I held the magazine in my hands. The creating process and shooting allowed me to see the peculiarities of different shades of my psyche. I realized that I have to overcome obstacles to achieve the best results. Especially through suffering. This is a point of growth and one of a kind of sublimation."
The Lofficiel Italia assignment wasn't merely another shoot for Bohdan; it embodied a deeply poignant narrative. Positioned against his upheaval due to geopolitical turmoil, this project bore both a homage to Marc Chagall and the unveiling of Bohdan's introspective journey. Navigating through the stringencies of the fashion realm — from intricate clothing choices to overarching brand mandates — posed significant challenges. Yet, the culmination of his vision in the published magazine pages was a metamorphic moment. It reinforced his belief that personal tales can carve their niche even amidst the stringent contours of the fashion world. Above all, this endeavour spotlighted Bohdan's unwavering faith in the transformative essence of art, especially when birthed from challenges. Through this endeavour, he crafted not just visuals but immortalized a testament of endurance, growth, and artistic rebirth.
ON: SELF-EXPLORATION
Fashion, while frequently viewed as the domain of exteriority, is often a deeply introspective space for those who immerse themselves in its realm. Beyond the texture, hue, and design lies a labyrinth of personal narratives, societal reflections, and cultural commentaries. For Bohdan, fashion isn't merely an occupation; it's an odyssey—a continuous journey of self-discovery and societal observation.
What does fashion mean to you and how does it play a role in your work?
"I adore couture. High fashion is a form of art I appreciate to the bones. I like to observe when 'the dress becomes a manifest' and the way of expression. I love this multiplayer-ness of deep sense running through collections. I love to see how fashion influences everything around us: social life and it helps us to explore new in ourselves. So if my work is fashion, my life is definitely too. Even we leave the commercial aspect aside. I do photography because I am investigating myself, and my authenticity, but the biggest fashion trend now is to be yourself, isn't it?"
For Bohdan, haute couture isn't just the pinnacle of fashion; it's the epitome of artistic expression. Each ensemble, in his eyes, is not just cloth and thread but a manifest—a statement carrying weight and wisdom. He finds beauty in the multi-layered narratives woven through fashion lines, observing their societal impacts and the self-revelations they offer. His work, interwoven with fashion, reflects the fabric of his life, emphasizing the inextricable link between the two. Yet, amidst all these reflections, Bohdan highlights an enduring truth: that today's preeminent fashion statement is one's authenticity, mirroring his personal quest for genuine self-expression within the dynamic world of fashion.
ON: GUIDING PRINCIPLES
The realm of fashion photography is as much a strategic battleground as it is a canvas for creativity. Aspiring maestros embarking on this journey often seek a compass, a beacon to illuminate their path amidst the overwhelming vistas of established brilliance.
What advice would you give to aspiring fashion photographers who are looking to make their mark in the industry, based on your own experiences and journey?
"To explore the world around them, to be attentive and sensitive to their own experiences. That gives authenticity, which the world desperately needs. Also, I’d say as in - 'Fundamentals of Chess 1883' - 'The only way to get smarter is by playing a smarter opponent.' Sometimes we are opponents to ourselves and art is like an endless chess game - you have to trick even yourself to find a way, to grow, to win."
From Bohdan's sagacious words, a clear directive emerges for budding photographers: to be authentic, to be deeply observant, and to value their individual experiences. By advocating the cultivation of authenticity, he underscores its timeless relevance in a world often veering towards the superficial. Yet, his allusion to the game of chess provides a nuanced dimension to his advice. It hints at the importance of perpetual self-challenge and introspection, suggesting that the greatest milestones are achieved when one confronts and surpasses internal barriers. Through his lens, the artistic journey becomes a relentless chess match of self against self, where victory lies in constant evolution and introspective strategy.
Bohdan Bohdanov's journey in the realm of fashion photography is a testament to the intricate confluence of personal narratives, artistic aspirations, and societal reflections. Through the lens of his experiences and insights, we've traversed not just the technicalities of his craft, but the profound emotional and philosophical underpinnings that anchor his work. His narrative echoes the universal struggles and triumphs of artists everywhere — the ceaseless quest for authenticity, the dance of passion with pragmatism, and the undying drive to communicate, to express, to resonate.
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In the vast mosaic of contemporary art, few realms captivate with as much dynamism and allure as fashion photography. It is a domain where aesthetics and narratives entwine, evoking emotions, ideologies, and cultural imprints. Yet, while the end results — the photographs — often shimmer with clarity and poise, the journeys that birth them remain obscured, layered in complexities, introspections, and serendipities. Enter the world of Bohdan Bohdanov, a maestro whose lens has captured more than just sartorial elegance; it has charted a deeply personal and reflective odyssey. As we delve into Bohdan's artistic psyche and experiences, we are offered not just a window into his evolution but also a mirror reflecting the broader nuances of fashion, art, and identity in our times.
ON: CHILDHOOD CURIOSITIES
In the expansive canvas of the art sphere, personal stories often become the compass guiding an artist's exploratory journey. For Bohdan, this compass was intricately calibrated by a fusion of adverse conditions and fortuitous discoveries.
How did you first venture into the world of fashion photography, and what drew you to this particular genre?
"I spent my childhood in a tiny mining town in Ukraine, belonging to a humble family with an income that was less than average. My journey into photography began unexpectedly when I was 13. I saw a story on TV about artists using the 'freeze-light' technique, and it captivated me. After finishing school, I joined the Academy of Culture and Arts. During my first year, I met people who ran a local fashion magazine and they hired me as their photographer. That's how I got my initial exposure to fashion photography. However, my life took a drastic turn on my 18th birthday when war broke out in my city."
Tracing Bohdan's evolution, we witness a transformative story. Growing up in a modest environment in Ukraine, the worlds of art and fashion seemed distant dreams for young Bohdan. Yet, a serendipitous television encounter with a photography technique sparked a fervent interest in him. Choosing the quiet allure of deserted streets over the typical pursuits of his contemporaries, Bohdan discovered solace and self-expression in photography. This newfound passion culminated in formal training, and his academic stint serendipitously ushered him into the echelons of fashion photography. However, as his career trajectory pointed upwards, geopolitical turbulence threw unforeseen challenges in his path, accentuating the grit and perseverance that hallmark his journey.
ON: TRANSCENDING TECHNIQUE
In the sprawling domain of artistic creation, the essence of a piece is often not just in its form but in its soul. Especially in fashion photography, where transient moments are crystallized, the spirit of the subject is as significant as its presentation. For Bohdan, the dance between palpable technique and intangible emotion underpins his illustrious works.
Can you share some of the key principles or techniques that define your unique style as a fashion photographer?
"I never really focus on the technical stuff. I lean on my feelings and my vision. I am spontaneous, dynamic and impulsive in my art. I love contrasts in all forms. I don't compromise. I am not into difficult post-production or special effects. Everything I see or create is realistic - even if it might look like an explosion of a unicorn in a fashion fairytale."
Diving into Bohdan's creative ethos reveals an artist driven more by intuition than by instruction. Prioritizing the pulse of emotion over prescribed techniques, he crafts imagery that is as spontaneous as it is impactful. His preference for contrasts, whether in subject or sentiment, provides depth and dynamism to his work. By consciously sidestepping intricate post-production while embracing moments of surreal brilliance, he ensures his work remains anchored in reality, even when it flirts with fantasy. At the heart of Bohdan's approach is an unwavering commitment to authenticity, elegantly weaving the fantastical with the genuine in each frame.
ON: INTROSPECTION IN IMAGERY
Every artistic endeavour carries a trace of its creator, an imprint that gives the art its unique identity. Often, this extends beyond mere technique, evolving into a complex blend of the creator's past experiences and present perceptions. For fashion photographers, this infusion of personal narratives provides depth and dimension to their imagery. Bohdan's portfolio, resplendent with intimate tales and reflections, exemplifies this interweaving of inner sentiment with outward expression.
What role does storytelling play in your fashion photography, and how do you incorporate narrative elements into your images?
"The core of my art is storytelling. Usually, it’s a story of myself, my childhood, my experiences and emotions. It's hard for me to explain exactly how I incorporate elements of narrative into the frame because it's directly related to my own associations and experiences. Empirically intuitive... Like a phrase from a song that I've filled with my own interpretation. Or a memory I’ve captured in a frame. 'What do I feel when I see it? When I was in a similar situation? How do I recall it? What do these memories look like? What's my evaluation of it? Where have I seen something like this, maybe in a movie or a painting?' — These are the basic questions I keep asking myself. I love dissecting every experience I have. This practice creates my personal stash of visual 'easter eggs' that I can use in my work."
Upon examining Bohdan's ethos, it's evident that his creations are not simply images; they're portals into his soul. These visuals encapsulate personal milestones, feelings, and memories, resonating with autobiographical undertones. By weaving his life's tapestry into his work, Bohdan ensures each photograph narrates not just a model's poise but also anecdotes of his life's journey. This organic narrative approach, built on introspection rather than instruction, showcases his belief in the fluidity of artistic storytelling. Continuously revisiting and reflecting on personal and cultural experiences, Bohdan amasses a repertoire of 'visual easter eggs,' subtly interspersed in his oeuvre. Through this, Bohdan's craft becomes more than just photography; it's a mosaic of his myriad memories and musings.
ON: CRAFTING HARMONY
Behind every arresting frame in fashion photography lies a meticulous choreography of thought, emotion, and collective enterprise. Crafting an image is akin to painting on a canvas where each stroke, be it bold or subtle, results from both singular vision and collaborative harmony. For Bohdan, this process unfolds like a carefully crafted symphony, where each note, whether whispered by introspection or echoed by a chorus of collaboration, contributes to the grand opus.
How do you approach creating a concept or mood for a fashion shoot, and how do you ensure that your vision is effectively communicated to the team?
"If we're talking about profound concepts, the most important thing for me is to have enough time to live inside them. So I shoot them once or twice a year. Usually, I catch a glimpse. Initially, this idea is very abstract. It’s like a puzzle, some pieces come together and I am starting to see the first sparks of the idea in my consciousness. And I mix in my daily routine with those sparks. After that, I start a mood board. First of all, I create the text of the story I want to tell. My knowledge of authors, aesthetics, and trends helps a lot. During this time I add details and replace them. Some things are added, and some are removed in order to become more complex, ambiguous, and multi-layered. After I present this mood board to the team, they can add their own interpretation of the concept. It is a fundamentally important point for me: to see the unique touch of each team member in my work."
Peeling back the layers of Bohdan's methodology reveals a profound blend of self-reflection and teamwork. His early ideation stages mirror the assembly of a jigsaw puzzle, with disparate inspirations slowly coalescing into a coherent vision. Yet, like the patient craftsmanship behind an expertly mixed cocktail, Bohdan's concepts mature over time, gradually integrating insights from daily life. His emphasis on detailed planning, underscored by exhaustive mood boards and textual narratives, is a testament to his dedication. Nevertheless, while his vision serves as the guiding lighthouse, Bohdan cherishes the hues and shades introduced by his team, celebrating their unique interpretations. In this delicate balance between personal intention and collective input, Bohdan's creations emerge as harmonized masterpieces of shared artistry.
ON: TRANSCENDING AESTHETICS
Fashion photography, at its core, isn't merely a juxtaposition of model, moment, and milieu. It is the art of elevating garments into powerful symbols, with each designer's unique aesthetic serving as a compelling muse. For a photographer, these designers don't just inform a perspective; they often transform it. For Bohdan, this transformative influence emanates from a select few iconic brands that harmonize with and amplify, his own artistic sensibilities.
Are there any specific fashion designers or brands that you find particularly inspiring, and how do their aesthetics influence your work?
"Schiaparelli, Richard Quinn, Iris Van Herpen - these fashion brands inspire me the most. In them, I see an absolute relevance to my photography and my sense of beauty. I'm a big fan of surrealism, dynamics, and shape in clothes."
A deep dive into Bohdan's inspirations reveals an unequivocal affinity for the groundbreaking and the imaginative. Brands like Schiaparelli, with its unapologetic dalliance with surrealism; Richard Quinn, renowned for its vibrant dynamism; and Iris Van Herpen, synonymous with avant-garde structural designs, align poetically with Bohdan's own ethos. Their shared passion for pushing boundaries and challenging conventions makes these designers not just external inspirations but essential components of Bohdan's visual language, enriching the layers and nuances of his captures.
ON: RESILIENCE REFLECTED
In the shimmering universe of fashion photography, every captured frame hides a saga — not merely of the muse or the motif, but of the maestro, their endeavours, and the myriad challenges they surmount during the artistic odyssey. At times, these tales echo global events, while on other occasions, they narrate profound personal transformations. For Bohdan, a significant Milanese shoot epitomizes this duality, interweaving his individual trajectory with the demanding intricacies of the fashion domain.
Can you tell us about a memorable or challenging fashion shoot you've had and how you navigated the obstacles to create a successful outcome?
"I'd point out the shoot we did in September 2022 for the Fall art issue of L’Officiel Italia in Milan. It was my first major project after the Russian military invasion of Ukraine and my forced emigration. This was a complex concept close to my heart, where we pay tribute to Marc Chagall and at the same time, it was a story about my psychotherapy and meeting my true self. The biggest challenge for me in this shoot was facing the real world of fashion and its complexities and rules. I told myself that I would never open up to the world deeply until I gained enough influence and choice to be above all else. But everything changed when I held the magazine in my hands. The creating process and shooting allowed me to see the peculiarities of different shades of my psyche. I realized that I have to overcome obstacles to achieve the best results. Especially through suffering. This is a point of growth and one of a kind of sublimation."
The Lofficiel Italia assignment wasn't merely another shoot for Bohdan; it embodied a deeply poignant narrative. Positioned against his upheaval due to geopolitical turmoil, this project bore both a homage to Marc Chagall and the unveiling of Bohdan's introspective journey. Navigating through the stringencies of the fashion realm — from intricate clothing choices to overarching brand mandates — posed significant challenges. Yet, the culmination of his vision in the published magazine pages was a metamorphic moment. It reinforced his belief that personal tales can carve their niche even amidst the stringent contours of the fashion world. Above all, this endeavour spotlighted Bohdan's unwavering faith in the transformative essence of art, especially when birthed from challenges. Through this endeavour, he crafted not just visuals but immortalized a testament of endurance, growth, and artistic rebirth.
ON: ARTISTRY
Within an artist's oeuvre, recurring motifs often arise, echoing like resonant chords in a melodic composition. These motifs, though articulated distinctively, signal a profound thematic exploration, rooted deeply in the artist's psyche. In Bohdan's vast array of fashion narratives, an archetype of a woman consistently surfaces, acting as both an enigma and a reflection of profound personal nuances.
Are there any recurring themes or concepts that you often explore in your fashion photography, and what draws you to these particular ideas?
"I identify my photography as tense, surrealistic, otherworldly, and ephemeral. I'm drawn to the same idea of a woman: strong, mysteriously magnetic, cool-headed, and unreachable. I meet her in every story I shoot. Who is this woman? Could it be my cold mother? You know—much to dig into here."
Bohdan's delineation of his work – with descriptors like "tense, surrealistic, otherworldly, and ephemeral" – evokes images that dance on the edges of reality, delving into spaces beyond the mundane. Central to this otherworldly tapestry stands a consistent feminine figure: a paradigm of strength, enigma, and captivating aloofness. This recurring muse, seemingly an interplay of allure and detachment, might be rooted in deep-seated memories, perhaps reflective of past familial ties, as intimated by his ponderings on a "cold mother." This confluence of personal experiences and artistic endeavours offers a glimpse into Bohdan's layered psyche, showcasing how intimate reverberations can intricately shape and magnify one's creative expressions.
ON: MODERN FASHION
Fashion, forever in flux, requires its denizens to continually adjust their sails, harnessing the winds of change. Keeping pace with the metamorphosing trends isn't merely about tracking them; it's an exercise in discerning the current societal pulse, while simultaneously casting an anticipatory gaze into the horizon.
How do you stay updated with the latest trends and developments in the fashion industry, and how do you incorporate them into your work while maintaining your unique perspective?
"Nowadays we don’t need to put any effort to stay updated. We are surrounded by information like never before. In my case, fashion shows and campaigns are my main source. I observe how it transforms from one form to another and immediately try to associate it with the state of society, the world, and my own vision, in order to understand why we need this exactly today. Usually, I feel many trends in advance, but it seems to me it happens to us all because that's how the world works—it gives us feedback on ourselves."
In Bohdan's perspective, the omnipresence of information in our digital era shapes our viewpoints, sometimes in ways we might not even consciously perceive. But rather than being a passive receptor, Bohdan critically engages, linking fashion trends to larger societal shifts, global dynamics, and personal introspections. This nuanced approach, which often allows him to preemptively sense upcoming trends, showcases his deep immersion in the fashion world. His belief that the world reflects our internalities suggests a profound interplay between individuality and collective ethos. In Bohdan's navigation of the fashion zeitgeist, he stands as both a sentinel and a seer, intuitively channelling and contributing to the evolving sartorial symphony.
ON: ECHOES OF THE SELF
The vast canvas of creative inspirations often varies among artists, with some gazing outwardly towards the world's tangible beauty and others embarking on introspective voyages within. For Bohdan, this inward journey reveals a reservoir of self-reflection and emotional exploration, positioning his personal experiences as the bedrock of his artistic endeavours.
Outside of fashion, what other sources of inspiration influence your photography, whether it's art, music, literature, or any other form of creative expression?
"To be honest, I have always been sceptical of this question. There is nothing specific. I love visual arts, sculpture, and electro-music. But I manifest evanescence on the fingertips. So literally I can catch the sparkle and blaze it out. I inspire myself—I am lost and found in the labyrinth of my own veins."
In his reflections, Bohdan hints at a nuanced relationship with inspiration. While he appreciates external forms of artistic expression, it's the fleeting, momentary sensations—those transient sparkles—that truly kindle his creativity. His description of himself as navigating the "labyrinth of his veins" paints a vivid picture of an artist perpetually in communion with his own essence, experiences, and emotions. This constant interplay between self-discovery and artistic creation ensures that each of Bohdan's works stands as a deeply personal testament to his inner world.
ON: ARTISTIC INTEGRITY AND COMMERCIAL APPEAL
Fashion photography presents a unique theatre where raw, artistic expression intersects with the exacting demands of commerce. Here, the camera isn't just a vessel for the soul's musings but also a conduit for brand stories and market-driven narratives. Harmonizing these seemingly divergent aspirations is a dance of finesse, a choreography that Bohdan has mastered through a philosophy rooted in authenticity and adaptability.
As a fashion photographer, how do you find a balance between expressing your artistic vision and satisfying the commercial demands and expectations of brands and clients?
"Generally, I hate the idea of the verb 'must.' When I reached my 18th birthday, I swore to myself that I would never ever waste a dime or a second of myself on anything that wasn’t a matter of my own interest or inspiration. I connect easily to a project if it’s thrilling me. It might be the brand philosophy, the product a brand sells, or the personality. My mind is flexible so I can dive all into the idea. I see the huge potential in the unknown and how I can look, grow and shine in that. The best result you get is when you truly love yourself and what you do in the process."
Bohdan's journey paints a vivid picture of an artist fiercely protective of his autonomy, a sentiment seeded in his early years. Rejecting the confines of external compulsions, he pledges allegiance to projects that align with his passions, whether they're defined by brand ethos, product allure, or magnetic collaborators. This malleability ensures that his work is not a mere transaction but an exploration, where even within commercial parameters, his signature touch prevails. At the heart of his ethos is a profound reverence for self and craft. It's this reverence that allows Bohdan to craft works that are not only commercially successful but also deeply imbued with his singular spirit.
ON: SELF-EXPLORATION
Fashion, while frequently viewed as the domain of exteriority, is often a deeply introspective space for those who immerse themselves in its realm. Beyond the texture, hue, and design lies a labyrinth of personal narratives, societal reflections, and cultural commentaries. For Bohdan, fashion isn't merely an occupation; it's an odyssey—a continuous journey of self-discovery and societal observation.
What does fashion mean to you and how does it play a role in your work?
"I adore couture. High fashion is a form of art I appreciate to the bones. I like to observe when 'the dress becomes a manifest' and the way of expression. I love this multiplayer-ness of deep sense running through collections. I love to see how fashion influences everything around us: social life and it helps us to explore new in ourselves. So if my work is fashion, my life is definitely too. Even we leave the commercial aspect aside. I do photography because I am investigating myself, and my authenticity, but the biggest fashion trend now is to be yourself, isn't it?"
For Bohdan, haute couture isn't just the pinnacle of fashion; it's the epitome of artistic expression. Each ensemble, in his eyes, is not just cloth and thread but a manifest—a statement carrying weight and wisdom. He finds beauty in the multi-layered narratives woven through fashion lines, observing their societal impacts and the self-revelations they offer. His work, interwoven with fashion, reflects the fabric of his life, emphasizing the inextricable link between the two. Yet, amidst all these reflections, Bohdan highlights an enduring truth: that today's preeminent fashion statement is one's authenticity, mirroring his personal quest for genuine self-expression within the dynamic world of fashion.
ON: GUIDING PRINCIPLES
The realm of fashion photography is as much a strategic battleground as it is a canvas for creativity. Aspiring maestros embarking on this journey often seek a compass, a beacon to illuminate their path amidst the overwhelming vistas of established brilliance.
What advice would you give to aspiring fashion photographers who are looking to make their mark in the industry, based on your own experiences and journey?
"To explore the world around them, to be attentive and sensitive to their own experiences. That gives authenticity, which the world desperately needs. Also, I’d say as in - 'Fundamentals of Chess 1883' - 'The only way to get smarter is by playing a smarter opponent.' Sometimes we are opponents to ourselves and art is like an endless chess game - you have to trick even yourself to find a way, to grow, to win."
From Bohdan's sagacious words, a clear directive emerges for budding photographers: to be authentic, to be deeply observant, and to value their individual experiences. By advocating the cultivation of authenticity, he underscores its timeless relevance in a world often veering towards the superficial. Yet, his allusion to the game of chess provides a nuanced dimension to his advice. It hints at the importance of perpetual self-challenge and introspection, suggesting that the greatest milestones are achieved when one confronts and surpasses internal barriers. Through his lens, the artistic journey becomes a relentless chess match of self against self, where victory lies in constant evolution and introspective strategy.
Bohdan Bohdanov's journey in the realm of fashion photography is a testament to the intricate confluence of personal narratives, artistic aspirations, and societal reflections. Through the lens of his experiences and insights, we've traversed not just the technicalities of his craft, but the profound emotional and philosophical underpinnings that anchor his work. His narrative echoes the universal struggles and triumphs of artists everywhere — the ceaseless quest for authenticity, the dance of passion with pragmatism, and the undying drive to communicate, to express, to resonate.
Book:
This editorial is featured in our book: N°Fashion for Fall/Winter '23.
Continue reading:
For more conversation pieces, continue reading in our section: The Conversation.
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Magical Escapes with Petecia Lefawnhawk
In the vast mosaic of contemporary art, few realms captivate with as much dynamism and allure as fashion photography. It is a domain where aesthetics and narratives entwine, evoking emotions, ideologies, and cultural imprints. Yet, while the end results — the photographs — often shimmer with clarity and poise, the journeys that birth them remain obscured, layered in complexities, introspections, and serendipities. Enter the world of Bohdan Bohdanov, a maestro whose lens has captured more than just sartorial elegance; it has charted a deeply personal and reflective odyssey. As we delve into Bohdan's artistic psyche and experiences, we are offered not just a window into his evolution but also a mirror reflecting the broader nuances of fashion, art, and identity in our times.
ON: CHILDHOOD CURIOSITIES
In the expansive canvas of the art sphere, personal stories often become the compass guiding an artist's exploratory journey. For Bohdan, this compass was intricately calibrated by a fusion of adverse conditions and fortuitous discoveries.
How did you first venture into the world of fashion photography, and what drew you to this particular genre?
"I spent my childhood in a tiny mining town in Ukraine, belonging to a humble family with an income that was less than average. My journey into photography began unexpectedly when I was 13. I saw a story on TV about artists using the 'freeze-light' technique, and it captivated me. After finishing school, I joined the Academy of Culture and Arts. During my first year, I met people who ran a local fashion magazine and they hired me as their photographer. That's how I got my initial exposure to fashion photography. However, my life took a drastic turn on my 18th birthday when war broke out in my city."
Tracing Bohdan's evolution, we witness a transformative story. Growing up in a modest environment in Ukraine, the worlds of art and fashion seemed distant dreams for young Bohdan. Yet, a serendipitous television encounter with a photography technique sparked a fervent interest in him. Choosing the quiet allure of deserted streets over the typical pursuits of his contemporaries, Bohdan discovered solace and self-expression in photography. This newfound passion culminated in formal training, and his academic stint serendipitously ushered him into the echelons of fashion photography. However, as his career trajectory pointed upwards, geopolitical turbulence threw unforeseen challenges in his path, accentuating the grit and perseverance that hallmark his journey.
ON: TRANSCENDING TECHNIQUE
In the sprawling domain of artistic creation, the essence of a piece is often not just in its form but in its soul. Especially in fashion photography, where transient moments are crystallized, the spirit of the subject is as significant as its presentation. For Bohdan, the dance between palpable technique and intangible emotion underpins his illustrious works.
Can you share some of the key principles or techniques that define your unique style as a fashion photographer?
"I never really focus on the technical stuff. I lean on my feelings and my vision. I am spontaneous, dynamic and impulsive in my art. I love contrasts in all forms. I don't compromise. I am not into difficult post-production or special effects. Everything I see or create is realistic - even if it might look like an explosion of a unicorn in a fashion fairytale."
Diving into Bohdan's creative ethos reveals an artist driven more by intuition than by instruction. Prioritizing the pulse of emotion over prescribed techniques, he crafts imagery that is as spontaneous as it is impactful. His preference for contrasts, whether in subject or sentiment, provides depth and dynamism to his work. By consciously sidestepping intricate post-production while embracing moments of surreal brilliance, he ensures his work remains anchored in reality, even when it flirts with fantasy. At the heart of Bohdan's approach is an unwavering commitment to authenticity, elegantly weaving the fantastical with the genuine in each frame.
ON: INTROSPECTION IN IMAGERY
Every artistic endeavour carries a trace of its creator, an imprint that gives the art its unique identity. Often, this extends beyond mere technique, evolving into a complex blend of the creator's past experiences and present perceptions. For fashion photographers, this infusion of personal narratives provides depth and dimension to their imagery. Bohdan's portfolio, resplendent with intimate tales and reflections, exemplifies this interweaving of inner sentiment with outward expression.
What role does storytelling play in your fashion photography, and how do you incorporate narrative elements into your images?
"The core of my art is storytelling. Usually, it’s a story of myself, my childhood, my experiences and emotions. It's hard for me to explain exactly how I incorporate elements of narrative into the frame because it's directly related to my own associations and experiences. Empirically intuitive... Like a phrase from a song that I've filled with my own interpretation. Or a memory I’ve captured in a frame. 'What do I feel when I see it? When I was in a similar situation? How do I recall it? What do these memories look like? What's my evaluation of it? Where have I seen something like this, maybe in a movie or a painting?' — These are the basic questions I keep asking myself. I love dissecting every experience I have. This practice creates my personal stash of visual 'easter eggs' that I can use in my work."
Upon examining Bohdan's ethos, it's evident that his creations are not simply images; they're portals into his soul. These visuals encapsulate personal milestones, feelings, and memories, resonating with autobiographical undertones. By weaving his life's tapestry into his work, Bohdan ensures each photograph narrates not just a model's poise but also anecdotes of his life's journey. This organic narrative approach, built on introspection rather than instruction, showcases his belief in the fluidity of artistic storytelling. Continuously revisiting and reflecting on personal and cultural experiences, Bohdan amasses a repertoire of 'visual easter eggs,' subtly interspersed in his oeuvre. Through this, Bohdan's craft becomes more than just photography; it's a mosaic of his myriad memories and musings.
ON: CRAFTING HARMONY
Behind every arresting frame in fashion photography lies a meticulous choreography of thought, emotion, and collective enterprise. Crafting an image is akin to painting on a canvas where each stroke, be it bold or subtle, results from both singular vision and collaborative harmony. For Bohdan, this process unfolds like a carefully crafted symphony, where each note, whether whispered by introspection or echoed by a chorus of collaboration, contributes to the grand opus.
How do you approach creating a concept or mood for a fashion shoot, and how do you ensure that your vision is effectively communicated to the team?
"If we're talking about profound concepts, the most important thing for me is to have enough time to live inside them. So I shoot them once or twice a year. Usually, I catch a glimpse. Initially, this idea is very abstract. It’s like a puzzle, some pieces come together and I am starting to see the first sparks of the idea in my consciousness. And I mix in my daily routine with those sparks. After that, I start a mood board. First of all, I create the text of the story I want to tell. My knowledge of authors, aesthetics, and trends helps a lot. During this time I add details and replace them. Some things are added, and some are removed in order to become more complex, ambiguous, and multi-layered. After I present this mood board to the team, they can add their own interpretation of the concept. It is a fundamentally important point for me: to see the unique touch of each team member in my work."
Peeling back the layers of Bohdan's methodology reveals a profound blend of self-reflection and teamwork. His early ideation stages mirror the assembly of a jigsaw puzzle, with disparate inspirations slowly coalescing into a coherent vision. Yet, like the patient craftsmanship behind an expertly mixed cocktail, Bohdan's concepts mature over time, gradually integrating insights from daily life. His emphasis on detailed planning, underscored by exhaustive mood boards and textual narratives, is a testament to his dedication. Nevertheless, while his vision serves as the guiding lighthouse, Bohdan cherishes the hues and shades introduced by his team, celebrating their unique interpretations. In this delicate balance between personal intention and collective input, Bohdan's creations emerge as harmonized masterpieces of shared artistry.
ON: TRANSCENDING AESTHETICS
Fashion photography, at its core, isn't merely a juxtaposition of model, moment, and milieu. It is the art of elevating garments into powerful symbols, with each designer's unique aesthetic serving as a compelling muse. For a photographer, these designers don't just inform a perspective; they often transform it. For Bohdan, this transformative influence emanates from a select few iconic brands that harmonize with and amplify, his own artistic sensibilities.
Are there any specific fashion designers or brands that you find particularly inspiring, and how do their aesthetics influence your work?
"Schiaparelli, Richard Quinn, Iris Van Herpen - these fashion brands inspire me the most. In them, I see an absolute relevance to my photography and my sense of beauty. I'm a big fan of surrealism, dynamics, and shape in clothes."
A deep dive into Bohdan's inspirations reveals an unequivocal affinity for the groundbreaking and the imaginative. Brands like Schiaparelli, with its unapologetic dalliance with surrealism; Richard Quinn, renowned for its vibrant dynamism; and Iris Van Herpen, synonymous with avant-garde structural designs, align poetically with Bohdan's own ethos. Their shared passion for pushing boundaries and challenging conventions makes these designers not just external inspirations but essential components of Bohdan's visual language, enriching the layers and nuances of his captures.
ON: RESILIENCE REFLECTED
In the shimmering universe of fashion photography, every captured frame hides a saga — not merely of the muse or the motif, but of the maestro, their endeavours, and the myriad challenges they surmount during the artistic odyssey. At times, these tales echo global events, while on other occasions, they narrate profound personal transformations. For Bohdan, a significant Milanese shoot epitomizes this duality, interweaving his individual trajectory with the demanding intricacies of the fashion domain.
Can you tell us about a memorable or challenging fashion shoot you've had and how you navigated the obstacles to create a successful outcome?
"I'd point out the shoot we did in September 2022 for the Fall art issue of L’Officiel Italia in Milan. It was my first major project after the Russian military invasion of Ukraine and my forced emigration. This was a complex concept close to my heart, where we pay tribute to Marc Chagall and at the same time, it was a story about my psychotherapy and meeting my true self. The biggest challenge for me in this shoot was facing the real world of fashion and its complexities and rules. I told myself that I would never open up to the world deeply until I gained enough influence and choice to be above all else. But everything changed when I held the magazine in my hands. The creating process and shooting allowed me to see the peculiarities of different shades of my psyche. I realized that I have to overcome obstacles to achieve the best results. Especially through suffering. This is a point of growth and one of a kind of sublimation."
The Lofficiel Italia assignment wasn't merely another shoot for Bohdan; it embodied a deeply poignant narrative. Positioned against his upheaval due to geopolitical turmoil, this project bore both a homage to Marc Chagall and the unveiling of Bohdan's introspective journey. Navigating through the stringencies of the fashion realm — from intricate clothing choices to overarching brand mandates — posed significant challenges. Yet, the culmination of his vision in the published magazine pages was a metamorphic moment. It reinforced his belief that personal tales can carve their niche even amidst the stringent contours of the fashion world. Above all, this endeavour spotlighted Bohdan's unwavering faith in the transformative essence of art, especially when birthed from challenges. Through this endeavour, he crafted not just visuals but immortalized a testament of endurance, growth, and artistic rebirth.
ON: ARTISTRY
Within an artist's oeuvre, recurring motifs often arise, echoing like resonant chords in a melodic composition. These motifs, though articulated distinctively, signal a profound thematic exploration, rooted deeply in the artist's psyche. In Bohdan's vast array of fashion narratives, an archetype of a woman consistently surfaces, acting as both an enigma and a reflection of profound personal nuances.
Are there any recurring themes or concepts that you often explore in your fashion photography, and what draws you to these particular ideas?
"I identify my photography as tense, surrealistic, otherworldly, and ephemeral. I'm drawn to the same idea of a woman: strong, mysteriously magnetic, cool-headed, and unreachable. I meet her in every story I shoot. Who is this woman? Could it be my cold mother? You know—much to dig into here."
Bohdan's delineation of his work – with descriptors like "tense, surrealistic, otherworldly, and ephemeral" – evokes images that dance on the edges of reality, delving into spaces beyond the mundane. Central to this otherworldly tapestry stands a consistent feminine figure: a paradigm of strength, enigma, and captivating aloofness. This recurring muse, seemingly an interplay of allure and detachment, might be rooted in deep-seated memories, perhaps reflective of past familial ties, as intimated by his ponderings on a "cold mother." This confluence of personal experiences and artistic endeavours offers a glimpse into Bohdan's layered psyche, showcasing how intimate reverberations can intricately shape and magnify one's creative expressions.
ON: MODERN FASHION
Fashion, forever in flux, requires its denizens to continually adjust their sails, harnessing the winds of change. Keeping pace with the metamorphosing trends isn't merely about tracking them; it's an exercise in discerning the current societal pulse, while simultaneously casting an anticipatory gaze into the horizon.
How do you stay updated with the latest trends and developments in the fashion industry, and how do you incorporate them into your work while maintaining your unique perspective?
"Nowadays we don’t need to put any effort to stay updated. We are surrounded by information like never before. In my case, fashion shows and campaigns are my main source. I observe how it transforms from one form to another and immediately try to associate it with the state of society, the world, and my own vision, in order to understand why we need this exactly today. Usually, I feel many trends in advance, but it seems to me it happens to us all because that's how the world works—it gives us feedback on ourselves."
In Bohdan's perspective, the omnipresence of information in our digital era shapes our viewpoints, sometimes in ways we might not even consciously perceive. But rather than being a passive receptor, Bohdan critically engages, linking fashion trends to larger societal shifts, global dynamics, and personal introspections. This nuanced approach, which often allows him to preemptively sense upcoming trends, showcases his deep immersion in the fashion world. His belief that the world reflects our internalities suggests a profound interplay between individuality and collective ethos. In Bohdan's navigation of the fashion zeitgeist, he stands as both a sentinel and a seer, intuitively channelling and contributing to the evolving sartorial symphony.
ON: ECHOES OF THE SELF
The vast canvas of creative inspirations often varies among artists, with some gazing outwardly towards the world's tangible beauty and others embarking on introspective voyages within. For Bohdan, this inward journey reveals a reservoir of self-reflection and emotional exploration, positioning his personal experiences as the bedrock of his artistic endeavours.
Outside of fashion, what other sources of inspiration influence your photography, whether it's art, music, literature, or any other form of creative expression?
"To be honest, I have always been sceptical of this question. There is nothing specific. I love visual arts, sculpture, and electro-music. But I manifest evanescence on the fingertips. So literally I can catch the sparkle and blaze it out. I inspire myself—I am lost and found in the labyrinth of my own veins."
In his reflections, Bohdan hints at a nuanced relationship with inspiration. While he appreciates external forms of artistic expression, it's the fleeting, momentary sensations—those transient sparkles—that truly kindle his creativity. His description of himself as navigating the "labyrinth of his veins" paints a vivid picture of an artist perpetually in communion with his own essence, experiences, and emotions. This constant interplay between self-discovery and artistic creation ensures that each of Bohdan's works stands as a deeply personal testament to his inner world.
ON: ARTISTIC INTEGRITY AND COMMERCIAL APPEAL
Fashion photography presents a unique theatre where raw, artistic expression intersects with the exacting demands of commerce. Here, the camera isn't just a vessel for the soul's musings but also a conduit for brand stories and market-driven narratives. Harmonizing these seemingly divergent aspirations is a dance of finesse, a choreography that Bohdan has mastered through a philosophy rooted in authenticity and adaptability.
As a fashion photographer, how do you find a balance between expressing your artistic vision and satisfying the commercial demands and expectations of brands and clients?
"Generally, I hate the idea of the verb 'must.' When I reached my 18th birthday, I swore to myself that I would never ever waste a dime or a second of myself on anything that wasn’t a matter of my own interest or inspiration. I connect easily to a project if it’s thrilling me. It might be the brand philosophy, the product a brand sells, or the personality. My mind is flexible so I can dive all into the idea. I see the huge potential in the unknown and how I can look, grow and shine in that. The best result you get is when you truly love yourself and what you do in the process."
Bohdan's journey paints a vivid picture of an artist fiercely protective of his autonomy, a sentiment seeded in his early years. Rejecting the confines of external compulsions, he pledges allegiance to projects that align with his passions, whether they're defined by brand ethos, product allure, or magnetic collaborators. This malleability ensures that his work is not a mere transaction but an exploration, where even within commercial parameters, his signature touch prevails. At the heart of his ethos is a profound reverence for self and craft. It's this reverence that allows Bohdan to craft works that are not only commercially successful but also deeply imbued with his singular spirit.
ON: SELF-EXPLORATION
Fashion, while frequently viewed as the domain of exteriority, is often a deeply introspective space for those who immerse themselves in its realm. Beyond the texture, hue, and design lies a labyrinth of personal narratives, societal reflections, and cultural commentaries. For Bohdan, fashion isn't merely an occupation; it's an odyssey—a continuous journey of self-discovery and societal observation.
What does fashion mean to you and how does it play a role in your work?
"I adore couture. High fashion is a form of art I appreciate to the bones. I like to observe when 'the dress becomes a manifest' and the way of expression. I love this multiplayer-ness of deep sense running through collections. I love to see how fashion influences everything around us: social life and it helps us to explore new in ourselves. So if my work is fashion, my life is definitely too. Even we leave the commercial aspect aside. I do photography because I am investigating myself, and my authenticity, but the biggest fashion trend now is to be yourself, isn't it?"
For Bohdan, haute couture isn't just the pinnacle of fashion; it's the epitome of artistic expression. Each ensemble, in his eyes, is not just cloth and thread but a manifest—a statement carrying weight and wisdom. He finds beauty in the multi-layered narratives woven through fashion lines, observing their societal impacts and the self-revelations they offer. His work, interwoven with fashion, reflects the fabric of his life, emphasizing the inextricable link between the two. Yet, amidst all these reflections, Bohdan highlights an enduring truth: that today's preeminent fashion statement is one's authenticity, mirroring his personal quest for genuine self-expression within the dynamic world of fashion.
ON: GUIDING PRINCIPLES
The realm of fashion photography is as much a strategic battleground as it is a canvas for creativity. Aspiring maestros embarking on this journey often seek a compass, a beacon to illuminate their path amidst the overwhelming vistas of established brilliance.
What advice would you give to aspiring fashion photographers who are looking to make their mark in the industry, based on your own experiences and journey?
"To explore the world around them, to be attentive and sensitive to their own experiences. That gives authenticity, which the world desperately needs. Also, I’d say as in - 'Fundamentals of Chess 1883' - 'The only way to get smarter is by playing a smarter opponent.' Sometimes we are opponents to ourselves and art is like an endless chess game - you have to trick even yourself to find a way, to grow, to win."
From Bohdan's sagacious words, a clear directive emerges for budding photographers: to be authentic, to be deeply observant, and to value their individual experiences. By advocating the cultivation of authenticity, he underscores its timeless relevance in a world often veering towards the superficial. Yet, his allusion to the game of chess provides a nuanced dimension to his advice. It hints at the importance of perpetual self-challenge and introspection, suggesting that the greatest milestones are achieved when one confronts and surpasses internal barriers. Through his lens, the artistic journey becomes a relentless chess match of self against self, where victory lies in constant evolution and introspective strategy.
Bohdan Bohdanov's journey in the realm of fashion photography is a testament to the intricate confluence of personal narratives, artistic aspirations, and societal reflections. Through the lens of his experiences and insights, we've traversed not just the technicalities of his craft, but the profound emotional and philosophical underpinnings that anchor his work. His narrative echoes the universal struggles and triumphs of artists everywhere — the ceaseless quest for authenticity, the dance of passion with pragmatism, and the undying drive to communicate, to express, to resonate.
Book:
This editorial is featured in our book: N°Fashion for Fall/Winter '23.
Continue reading:
For more conversation pieces, continue reading in our section: The Conversation.
For conversations with photographers, we recommend reading:
Painting the world with Mar+Vin
Romain Laprade on Nostalgia
Magical Escapes with Petecia Lefawnhawk
In the vast mosaic of contemporary art, few realms captivate with as much dynamism and allure as fashion photography. It is a domain where aesthetics and narratives entwine, evoking emotions, ideologies, and cultural imprints. Yet, while the end results — the photographs — often shimmer with clarity and poise, the journeys that birth them remain obscured, layered in complexities, introspections, and serendipities. Enter the world of Bohdan Bohdanov, a maestro whose lens has captured more than just sartorial elegance; it has charted a deeply personal and reflective odyssey. As we delve into Bohdan's artistic psyche and experiences, we are offered not just a window into his evolution but also a mirror reflecting the broader nuances of fashion, art, and identity in our times.
ON: CHILDHOOD CURIOSITIES
In the expansive canvas of the art sphere, personal stories often become the compass guiding an artist's exploratory journey. For Bohdan, this compass was intricately calibrated by a fusion of adverse conditions and fortuitous discoveries.
How did you first venture into the world of fashion photography, and what drew you to this particular genre?
"I spent my childhood in a tiny mining town in Ukraine, belonging to a humble family with an income that was less than average. My journey into photography began unexpectedly when I was 13. I saw a story on TV about artists using the 'freeze-light' technique, and it captivated me. After finishing school, I joined the Academy of Culture and Arts. During my first year, I met people who ran a local fashion magazine and they hired me as their photographer. That's how I got my initial exposure to fashion photography. However, my life took a drastic turn on my 18th birthday when war broke out in my city."
Tracing Bohdan's evolution, we witness a transformative story. Growing up in a modest environment in Ukraine, the worlds of art and fashion seemed distant dreams for young Bohdan. Yet, a serendipitous television encounter with a photography technique sparked a fervent interest in him. Choosing the quiet allure of deserted streets over the typical pursuits of his contemporaries, Bohdan discovered solace and self-expression in photography. This newfound passion culminated in formal training, and his academic stint serendipitously ushered him into the echelons of fashion photography. However, as his career trajectory pointed upwards, geopolitical turbulence threw unforeseen challenges in his path, accentuating the grit and perseverance that hallmark his journey.
ON: TRANSCENDING TECHNIQUE
In the sprawling domain of artistic creation, the essence of a piece is often not just in its form but in its soul. Especially in fashion photography, where transient moments are crystallized, the spirit of the subject is as significant as its presentation. For Bohdan, the dance between palpable technique and intangible emotion underpins his illustrious works.
Can you share some of the key principles or techniques that define your unique style as a fashion photographer?
"I never really focus on the technical stuff. I lean on my feelings and my vision. I am spontaneous, dynamic and impulsive in my art. I love contrasts in all forms. I don't compromise. I am not into difficult post-production or special effects. Everything I see or create is realistic - even if it might look like an explosion of a unicorn in a fashion fairytale."
Diving into Bohdan's creative ethos reveals an artist driven more by intuition than by instruction. Prioritizing the pulse of emotion over prescribed techniques, he crafts imagery that is as spontaneous as it is impactful. His preference for contrasts, whether in subject or sentiment, provides depth and dynamism to his work. By consciously sidestepping intricate post-production while embracing moments of surreal brilliance, he ensures his work remains anchored in reality, even when it flirts with fantasy. At the heart of Bohdan's approach is an unwavering commitment to authenticity, elegantly weaving the fantastical with the genuine in each frame.
ON: INTROSPECTION IN IMAGERY
Every artistic endeavour carries a trace of its creator, an imprint that gives the art its unique identity. Often, this extends beyond mere technique, evolving into a complex blend of the creator's past experiences and present perceptions. For fashion photographers, this infusion of personal narratives provides depth and dimension to their imagery. Bohdan's portfolio, resplendent with intimate tales and reflections, exemplifies this interweaving of inner sentiment with outward expression.
What role does storytelling play in your fashion photography, and how do you incorporate narrative elements into your images?
"The core of my art is storytelling. Usually, it’s a story of myself, my childhood, my experiences and emotions. It's hard for me to explain exactly how I incorporate elements of narrative into the frame because it's directly related to my own associations and experiences. Empirically intuitive... Like a phrase from a song that I've filled with my own interpretation. Or a memory I’ve captured in a frame. 'What do I feel when I see it? When I was in a similar situation? How do I recall it? What do these memories look like? What's my evaluation of it? Where have I seen something like this, maybe in a movie or a painting?' — These are the basic questions I keep asking myself. I love dissecting every experience I have. This practice creates my personal stash of visual 'easter eggs' that I can use in my work."
Upon examining Bohdan's ethos, it's evident that his creations are not simply images; they're portals into his soul. These visuals encapsulate personal milestones, feelings, and memories, resonating with autobiographical undertones. By weaving his life's tapestry into his work, Bohdan ensures each photograph narrates not just a model's poise but also anecdotes of his life's journey. This organic narrative approach, built on introspection rather than instruction, showcases his belief in the fluidity of artistic storytelling. Continuously revisiting and reflecting on personal and cultural experiences, Bohdan amasses a repertoire of 'visual easter eggs,' subtly interspersed in his oeuvre. Through this, Bohdan's craft becomes more than just photography; it's a mosaic of his myriad memories and musings.
ON: CRAFTING HARMONY
Behind every arresting frame in fashion photography lies a meticulous choreography of thought, emotion, and collective enterprise. Crafting an image is akin to painting on a canvas where each stroke, be it bold or subtle, results from both singular vision and collaborative harmony. For Bohdan, this process unfolds like a carefully crafted symphony, where each note, whether whispered by introspection or echoed by a chorus of collaboration, contributes to the grand opus.
How do you approach creating a concept or mood for a fashion shoot, and how do you ensure that your vision is effectively communicated to the team?
"If we're talking about profound concepts, the most important thing for me is to have enough time to live inside them. So I shoot them once or twice a year. Usually, I catch a glimpse. Initially, this idea is very abstract. It’s like a puzzle, some pieces come together and I am starting to see the first sparks of the idea in my consciousness. And I mix in my daily routine with those sparks. After that, I start a mood board. First of all, I create the text of the story I want to tell. My knowledge of authors, aesthetics, and trends helps a lot. During this time I add details and replace them. Some things are added, and some are removed in order to become more complex, ambiguous, and multi-layered. After I present this mood board to the team, they can add their own interpretation of the concept. It is a fundamentally important point for me: to see the unique touch of each team member in my work."
Peeling back the layers of Bohdan's methodology reveals a profound blend of self-reflection and teamwork. His early ideation stages mirror the assembly of a jigsaw puzzle, with disparate inspirations slowly coalescing into a coherent vision. Yet, like the patient craftsmanship behind an expertly mixed cocktail, Bohdan's concepts mature over time, gradually integrating insights from daily life. His emphasis on detailed planning, underscored by exhaustive mood boards and textual narratives, is a testament to his dedication. Nevertheless, while his vision serves as the guiding lighthouse, Bohdan cherishes the hues and shades introduced by his team, celebrating their unique interpretations. In this delicate balance between personal intention and collective input, Bohdan's creations emerge as harmonized masterpieces of shared artistry.
ON: TRANSCENDING AESTHETICS
Fashion photography, at its core, isn't merely a juxtaposition of model, moment, and milieu. It is the art of elevating garments into powerful symbols, with each designer's unique aesthetic serving as a compelling muse. For a photographer, these designers don't just inform a perspective; they often transform it. For Bohdan, this transformative influence emanates from a select few iconic brands that harmonize with and amplify, his own artistic sensibilities.
Are there any specific fashion designers or brands that you find particularly inspiring, and how do their aesthetics influence your work?
"Schiaparelli, Richard Quinn, Iris Van Herpen - these fashion brands inspire me the most. In them, I see an absolute relevance to my photography and my sense of beauty. I'm a big fan of surrealism, dynamics, and shape in clothes."
A deep dive into Bohdan's inspirations reveals an unequivocal affinity for the groundbreaking and the imaginative. Brands like Schiaparelli, with its unapologetic dalliance with surrealism; Richard Quinn, renowned for its vibrant dynamism; and Iris Van Herpen, synonymous with avant-garde structural designs, align poetically with Bohdan's own ethos. Their shared passion for pushing boundaries and challenging conventions makes these designers not just external inspirations but essential components of Bohdan's visual language, enriching the layers and nuances of his captures.
ON: RESILIENCE REFLECTED
In the shimmering universe of fashion photography, every captured frame hides a saga — not merely of the muse or the motif, but of the maestro, their endeavours, and the myriad challenges they surmount during the artistic odyssey. At times, these tales echo global events, while on other occasions, they narrate profound personal transformations. For Bohdan, a significant Milanese shoot epitomizes this duality, interweaving his individual trajectory with the demanding intricacies of the fashion domain.
Can you tell us about a memorable or challenging fashion shoot you've had and how you navigated the obstacles to create a successful outcome?
"I'd point out the shoot we did in September 2022 for the Fall art issue of L’Officiel Italia in Milan. It was my first major project after the Russian military invasion of Ukraine and my forced emigration. This was a complex concept close to my heart, where we pay tribute to Marc Chagall and at the same time, it was a story about my psychotherapy and meeting my true self. The biggest challenge for me in this shoot was facing the real world of fashion and its complexities and rules. I told myself that I would never open up to the world deeply until I gained enough influence and choice to be above all else. But everything changed when I held the magazine in my hands. The creating process and shooting allowed me to see the peculiarities of different shades of my psyche. I realized that I have to overcome obstacles to achieve the best results. Especially through suffering. This is a point of growth and one of a kind of sublimation."
The Lofficiel Italia assignment wasn't merely another shoot for Bohdan; it embodied a deeply poignant narrative. Positioned against his upheaval due to geopolitical turmoil, this project bore both a homage to Marc Chagall and the unveiling of Bohdan's introspective journey. Navigating through the stringencies of the fashion realm — from intricate clothing choices to overarching brand mandates — posed significant challenges. Yet, the culmination of his vision in the published magazine pages was a metamorphic moment. It reinforced his belief that personal tales can carve their niche even amidst the stringent contours of the fashion world. Above all, this endeavour spotlighted Bohdan's unwavering faith in the transformative essence of art, especially when birthed from challenges. Through this endeavour, he crafted not just visuals but immortalized a testament of endurance, growth, and artistic rebirth.
ON: ARTISTRY
Within an artist's oeuvre, recurring motifs often arise, echoing like resonant chords in a melodic composition. These motifs, though articulated distinctively, signal a profound thematic exploration, rooted deeply in the artist's psyche. In Bohdan's vast array of fashion narratives, an archetype of a woman consistently surfaces, acting as both an enigma and a reflection of profound personal nuances.
Are there any recurring themes or concepts that you often explore in your fashion photography, and what draws you to these particular ideas?
"I identify my photography as tense, surrealistic, otherworldly, and ephemeral. I'm drawn to the same idea of a woman: strong, mysteriously magnetic, cool-headed, and unreachable. I meet her in every story I shoot. Who is this woman? Could it be my cold mother? You know—much to dig into here."
Bohdan's delineation of his work – with descriptors like "tense, surrealistic, otherworldly, and ephemeral" – evokes images that dance on the edges of reality, delving into spaces beyond the mundane. Central to this otherworldly tapestry stands a consistent feminine figure: a paradigm of strength, enigma, and captivating aloofness. This recurring muse, seemingly an interplay of allure and detachment, might be rooted in deep-seated memories, perhaps reflective of past familial ties, as intimated by his ponderings on a "cold mother." This confluence of personal experiences and artistic endeavours offers a glimpse into Bohdan's layered psyche, showcasing how intimate reverberations can intricately shape and magnify one's creative expressions.
ON: MODERN FASHION
Fashion, forever in flux, requires its denizens to continually adjust their sails, harnessing the winds of change. Keeping pace with the metamorphosing trends isn't merely about tracking them; it's an exercise in discerning the current societal pulse, while simultaneously casting an anticipatory gaze into the horizon.
How do you stay updated with the latest trends and developments in the fashion industry, and how do you incorporate them into your work while maintaining your unique perspective?
"Nowadays we don’t need to put any effort to stay updated. We are surrounded by information like never before. In my case, fashion shows and campaigns are my main source. I observe how it transforms from one form to another and immediately try to associate it with the state of society, the world, and my own vision, in order to understand why we need this exactly today. Usually, I feel many trends in advance, but it seems to me it happens to us all because that's how the world works—it gives us feedback on ourselves."
In Bohdan's perspective, the omnipresence of information in our digital era shapes our viewpoints, sometimes in ways we might not even consciously perceive. But rather than being a passive receptor, Bohdan critically engages, linking fashion trends to larger societal shifts, global dynamics, and personal introspections. This nuanced approach, which often allows him to preemptively sense upcoming trends, showcases his deep immersion in the fashion world. His belief that the world reflects our internalities suggests a profound interplay between individuality and collective ethos. In Bohdan's navigation of the fashion zeitgeist, he stands as both a sentinel and a seer, intuitively channelling and contributing to the evolving sartorial symphony.
ON: ECHOES OF THE SELF
The vast canvas of creative inspirations often varies among artists, with some gazing outwardly towards the world's tangible beauty and others embarking on introspective voyages within. For Bohdan, this inward journey reveals a reservoir of self-reflection and emotional exploration, positioning his personal experiences as the bedrock of his artistic endeavours.
Outside of fashion, what other sources of inspiration influence your photography, whether it's art, music, literature, or any other form of creative expression?
"To be honest, I have always been sceptical of this question. There is nothing specific. I love visual arts, sculpture, and electro-music. But I manifest evanescence on the fingertips. So literally I can catch the sparkle and blaze it out. I inspire myself—I am lost and found in the labyrinth of my own veins."
In his reflections, Bohdan hints at a nuanced relationship with inspiration. While he appreciates external forms of artistic expression, it's the fleeting, momentary sensations—those transient sparkles—that truly kindle his creativity. His description of himself as navigating the "labyrinth of his veins" paints a vivid picture of an artist perpetually in communion with his own essence, experiences, and emotions. This constant interplay between self-discovery and artistic creation ensures that each of Bohdan's works stands as a deeply personal testament to his inner world.
ON: ARTISTIC INTEGRITY AND COMMERCIAL APPEAL
Fashion photography presents a unique theatre where raw, artistic expression intersects with the exacting demands of commerce. Here, the camera isn't just a vessel for the soul's musings but also a conduit for brand stories and market-driven narratives. Harmonizing these seemingly divergent aspirations is a dance of finesse, a choreography that Bohdan has mastered through a philosophy rooted in authenticity and adaptability.
As a fashion photographer, how do you find a balance between expressing your artistic vision and satisfying the commercial demands and expectations of brands and clients?
"Generally, I hate the idea of the verb 'must.' When I reached my 18th birthday, I swore to myself that I would never ever waste a dime or a second of myself on anything that wasn’t a matter of my own interest or inspiration. I connect easily to a project if it’s thrilling me. It might be the brand philosophy, the product a brand sells, or the personality. My mind is flexible so I can dive all into the idea. I see the huge potential in the unknown and how I can look, grow and shine in that. The best result you get is when you truly love yourself and what you do in the process."
Bohdan's journey paints a vivid picture of an artist fiercely protective of his autonomy, a sentiment seeded in his early years. Rejecting the confines of external compulsions, he pledges allegiance to projects that align with his passions, whether they're defined by brand ethos, product allure, or magnetic collaborators. This malleability ensures that his work is not a mere transaction but an exploration, where even within commercial parameters, his signature touch prevails. At the heart of his ethos is a profound reverence for self and craft. It's this reverence that allows Bohdan to craft works that are not only commercially successful but also deeply imbued with his singular spirit.
ON: SELF-EXPLORATION
Fashion, while frequently viewed as the domain of exteriority, is often a deeply introspective space for those who immerse themselves in its realm. Beyond the texture, hue, and design lies a labyrinth of personal narratives, societal reflections, and cultural commentaries. For Bohdan, fashion isn't merely an occupation; it's an odyssey—a continuous journey of self-discovery and societal observation.
What does fashion mean to you and how does it play a role in your work?
"I adore couture. High fashion is a form of art I appreciate to the bones. I like to observe when 'the dress becomes a manifest' and the way of expression. I love this multiplayer-ness of deep sense running through collections. I love to see how fashion influences everything around us: social life and it helps us to explore new in ourselves. So if my work is fashion, my life is definitely too. Even we leave the commercial aspect aside. I do photography because I am investigating myself, and my authenticity, but the biggest fashion trend now is to be yourself, isn't it?"
For Bohdan, haute couture isn't just the pinnacle of fashion; it's the epitome of artistic expression. Each ensemble, in his eyes, is not just cloth and thread but a manifest—a statement carrying weight and wisdom. He finds beauty in the multi-layered narratives woven through fashion lines, observing their societal impacts and the self-revelations they offer. His work, interwoven with fashion, reflects the fabric of his life, emphasizing the inextricable link between the two. Yet, amidst all these reflections, Bohdan highlights an enduring truth: that today's preeminent fashion statement is one's authenticity, mirroring his personal quest for genuine self-expression within the dynamic world of fashion.
ON: GUIDING PRINCIPLES
The realm of fashion photography is as much a strategic battleground as it is a canvas for creativity. Aspiring maestros embarking on this journey often seek a compass, a beacon to illuminate their path amidst the overwhelming vistas of established brilliance.
What advice would you give to aspiring fashion photographers who are looking to make their mark in the industry, based on your own experiences and journey?
"To explore the world around them, to be attentive and sensitive to their own experiences. That gives authenticity, which the world desperately needs. Also, I’d say as in - 'Fundamentals of Chess 1883' - 'The only way to get smarter is by playing a smarter opponent.' Sometimes we are opponents to ourselves and art is like an endless chess game - you have to trick even yourself to find a way, to grow, to win."
From Bohdan's sagacious words, a clear directive emerges for budding photographers: to be authentic, to be deeply observant, and to value their individual experiences. By advocating the cultivation of authenticity, he underscores its timeless relevance in a world often veering towards the superficial. Yet, his allusion to the game of chess provides a nuanced dimension to his advice. It hints at the importance of perpetual self-challenge and introspection, suggesting that the greatest milestones are achieved when one confronts and surpasses internal barriers. Through his lens, the artistic journey becomes a relentless chess match of self against self, where victory lies in constant evolution and introspective strategy.
Bohdan Bohdanov's journey in the realm of fashion photography is a testament to the intricate confluence of personal narratives, artistic aspirations, and societal reflections. Through the lens of his experiences and insights, we've traversed not just the technicalities of his craft, but the profound emotional and philosophical underpinnings that anchor his work. His narrative echoes the universal struggles and triumphs of artists everywhere — the ceaseless quest for authenticity, the dance of passion with pragmatism, and the undying drive to communicate, to express, to resonate.
Book:
This editorial is featured in our book: N°Fashion for Fall/Winter '23.
Continue reading:
For more conversation pieces, continue reading in our section: The Conversation.
For conversations with photographers, we recommend reading:
Painting the world with Mar+Vin
Romain Laprade on Nostalgia
Magical Escapes with Petecia Lefawnhawk
In the vast mosaic of contemporary art, few realms captivate with as much dynamism and allure as fashion photography. It is a domain where aesthetics and narratives entwine, evoking emotions, ideologies, and cultural imprints. Yet, while the end results — the photographs — often shimmer with clarity and poise, the journeys that birth them remain obscured, layered in complexities, introspections, and serendipities. Enter the world of Bohdan Bohdanov, a maestro whose lens has captured more than just sartorial elegance; it has charted a deeply personal and reflective odyssey. As we delve into Bohdan's artistic psyche and experiences, we are offered not just a window into his evolution but also a mirror reflecting the broader nuances of fashion, art, and identity in our times.
ON: CHILDHOOD CURIOSITIES
In the expansive canvas of the art sphere, personal stories often become the compass guiding an artist's exploratory journey. For Bohdan, this compass was intricately calibrated by a fusion of adverse conditions and fortuitous discoveries.
How did you first venture into the world of fashion photography, and what drew you to this particular genre?
"I spent my childhood in a tiny mining town in Ukraine, belonging to a humble family with an income that was less than average. My journey into photography began unexpectedly when I was 13. I saw a story on TV about artists using the 'freeze-light' technique, and it captivated me. After finishing school, I joined the Academy of Culture and Arts. During my first year, I met people who ran a local fashion magazine and they hired me as their photographer. That's how I got my initial exposure to fashion photography. However, my life took a drastic turn on my 18th birthday when war broke out in my city."
Tracing Bohdan's evolution, we witness a transformative story. Growing up in a modest environment in Ukraine, the worlds of art and fashion seemed distant dreams for young Bohdan. Yet, a serendipitous television encounter with a photography technique sparked a fervent interest in him. Choosing the quiet allure of deserted streets over the typical pursuits of his contemporaries, Bohdan discovered solace and self-expression in photography. This newfound passion culminated in formal training, and his academic stint serendipitously ushered him into the echelons of fashion photography. However, as his career trajectory pointed upwards, geopolitical turbulence threw unforeseen challenges in his path, accentuating the grit and perseverance that hallmark his journey.
ON: TRANSCENDING TECHNIQUE
In the sprawling domain of artistic creation, the essence of a piece is often not just in its form but in its soul. Especially in fashion photography, where transient moments are crystallized, the spirit of the subject is as significant as its presentation. For Bohdan, the dance between palpable technique and intangible emotion underpins his illustrious works.
Can you share some of the key principles or techniques that define your unique style as a fashion photographer?
"I never really focus on the technical stuff. I lean on my feelings and my vision. I am spontaneous, dynamic and impulsive in my art. I love contrasts in all forms. I don't compromise. I am not into difficult post-production or special effects. Everything I see or create is realistic - even if it might look like an explosion of a unicorn in a fashion fairytale."
Diving into Bohdan's creative ethos reveals an artist driven more by intuition than by instruction. Prioritizing the pulse of emotion over prescribed techniques, he crafts imagery that is as spontaneous as it is impactful. His preference for contrasts, whether in subject or sentiment, provides depth and dynamism to his work. By consciously sidestepping intricate post-production while embracing moments of surreal brilliance, he ensures his work remains anchored in reality, even when it flirts with fantasy. At the heart of Bohdan's approach is an unwavering commitment to authenticity, elegantly weaving the fantastical with the genuine in each frame.
ON: INTROSPECTION IN IMAGERY
Every artistic endeavour carries a trace of its creator, an imprint that gives the art its unique identity. Often, this extends beyond mere technique, evolving into a complex blend of the creator's past experiences and present perceptions. For fashion photographers, this infusion of personal narratives provides depth and dimension to their imagery. Bohdan's portfolio, resplendent with intimate tales and reflections, exemplifies this interweaving of inner sentiment with outward expression.
What role does storytelling play in your fashion photography, and how do you incorporate narrative elements into your images?
"The core of my art is storytelling. Usually, it’s a story of myself, my childhood, my experiences and emotions. It's hard for me to explain exactly how I incorporate elements of narrative into the frame because it's directly related to my own associations and experiences. Empirically intuitive... Like a phrase from a song that I've filled with my own interpretation. Or a memory I’ve captured in a frame. 'What do I feel when I see it? When I was in a similar situation? How do I recall it? What do these memories look like? What's my evaluation of it? Where have I seen something like this, maybe in a movie or a painting?' — These are the basic questions I keep asking myself. I love dissecting every experience I have. This practice creates my personal stash of visual 'easter eggs' that I can use in my work."
Upon examining Bohdan's ethos, it's evident that his creations are not simply images; they're portals into his soul. These visuals encapsulate personal milestones, feelings, and memories, resonating with autobiographical undertones. By weaving his life's tapestry into his work, Bohdan ensures each photograph narrates not just a model's poise but also anecdotes of his life's journey. This organic narrative approach, built on introspection rather than instruction, showcases his belief in the fluidity of artistic storytelling. Continuously revisiting and reflecting on personal and cultural experiences, Bohdan amasses a repertoire of 'visual easter eggs,' subtly interspersed in his oeuvre. Through this, Bohdan's craft becomes more than just photography; it's a mosaic of his myriad memories and musings.
ON: CRAFTING HARMONY
Behind every arresting frame in fashion photography lies a meticulous choreography of thought, emotion, and collective enterprise. Crafting an image is akin to painting on a canvas where each stroke, be it bold or subtle, results from both singular vision and collaborative harmony. For Bohdan, this process unfolds like a carefully crafted symphony, where each note, whether whispered by introspection or echoed by a chorus of collaboration, contributes to the grand opus.
How do you approach creating a concept or mood for a fashion shoot, and how do you ensure that your vision is effectively communicated to the team?
"If we're talking about profound concepts, the most important thing for me is to have enough time to live inside them. So I shoot them once or twice a year. Usually, I catch a glimpse. Initially, this idea is very abstract. It’s like a puzzle, some pieces come together and I am starting to see the first sparks of the idea in my consciousness. And I mix in my daily routine with those sparks. After that, I start a mood board. First of all, I create the text of the story I want to tell. My knowledge of authors, aesthetics, and trends helps a lot. During this time I add details and replace them. Some things are added, and some are removed in order to become more complex, ambiguous, and multi-layered. After I present this mood board to the team, they can add their own interpretation of the concept. It is a fundamentally important point for me: to see the unique touch of each team member in my work."
Peeling back the layers of Bohdan's methodology reveals a profound blend of self-reflection and teamwork. His early ideation stages mirror the assembly of a jigsaw puzzle, with disparate inspirations slowly coalescing into a coherent vision. Yet, like the patient craftsmanship behind an expertly mixed cocktail, Bohdan's concepts mature over time, gradually integrating insights from daily life. His emphasis on detailed planning, underscored by exhaustive mood boards and textual narratives, is a testament to his dedication. Nevertheless, while his vision serves as the guiding lighthouse, Bohdan cherishes the hues and shades introduced by his team, celebrating their unique interpretations. In this delicate balance between personal intention and collective input, Bohdan's creations emerge as harmonized masterpieces of shared artistry.
ON: TRANSCENDING AESTHETICS
Fashion photography, at its core, isn't merely a juxtaposition of model, moment, and milieu. It is the art of elevating garments into powerful symbols, with each designer's unique aesthetic serving as a compelling muse. For a photographer, these designers don't just inform a perspective; they often transform it. For Bohdan, this transformative influence emanates from a select few iconic brands that harmonize with and amplify, his own artistic sensibilities.
Are there any specific fashion designers or brands that you find particularly inspiring, and how do their aesthetics influence your work?
"Schiaparelli, Richard Quinn, Iris Van Herpen - these fashion brands inspire me the most. In them, I see an absolute relevance to my photography and my sense of beauty. I'm a big fan of surrealism, dynamics, and shape in clothes."
A deep dive into Bohdan's inspirations reveals an unequivocal affinity for the groundbreaking and the imaginative. Brands like Schiaparelli, with its unapologetic dalliance with surrealism; Richard Quinn, renowned for its vibrant dynamism; and Iris Van Herpen, synonymous with avant-garde structural designs, align poetically with Bohdan's own ethos. Their shared passion for pushing boundaries and challenging conventions makes these designers not just external inspirations but essential components of Bohdan's visual language, enriching the layers and nuances of his captures.
ON: RESILIENCE REFLECTED
In the shimmering universe of fashion photography, every captured frame hides a saga — not merely of the muse or the motif, but of the maestro, their endeavours, and the myriad challenges they surmount during the artistic odyssey. At times, these tales echo global events, while on other occasions, they narrate profound personal transformations. For Bohdan, a significant Milanese shoot epitomizes this duality, interweaving his individual trajectory with the demanding intricacies of the fashion domain.
Can you tell us about a memorable or challenging fashion shoot you've had and how you navigated the obstacles to create a successful outcome?
"I'd point out the shoot we did in September 2022 for the Fall art issue of L’Officiel Italia in Milan. It was my first major project after the Russian military invasion of Ukraine and my forced emigration. This was a complex concept close to my heart, where we pay tribute to Marc Chagall and at the same time, it was a story about my psychotherapy and meeting my true self. The biggest challenge for me in this shoot was facing the real world of fashion and its complexities and rules. I told myself that I would never open up to the world deeply until I gained enough influence and choice to be above all else. But everything changed when I held the magazine in my hands. The creating process and shooting allowed me to see the peculiarities of different shades of my psyche. I realized that I have to overcome obstacles to achieve the best results. Especially through suffering. This is a point of growth and one of a kind of sublimation."
The Lofficiel Italia assignment wasn't merely another shoot for Bohdan; it embodied a deeply poignant narrative. Positioned against his upheaval due to geopolitical turmoil, this project bore both a homage to Marc Chagall and the unveiling of Bohdan's introspective journey. Navigating through the stringencies of the fashion realm — from intricate clothing choices to overarching brand mandates — posed significant challenges. Yet, the culmination of his vision in the published magazine pages was a metamorphic moment. It reinforced his belief that personal tales can carve their niche even amidst the stringent contours of the fashion world. Above all, this endeavour spotlighted Bohdan's unwavering faith in the transformative essence of art, especially when birthed from challenges. Through this endeavour, he crafted not just visuals but immortalized a testament of endurance, growth, and artistic rebirth.
ON: ARTISTRY
Within an artist's oeuvre, recurring motifs often arise, echoing like resonant chords in a melodic composition. These motifs, though articulated distinctively, signal a profound thematic exploration, rooted deeply in the artist's psyche. In Bohdan's vast array of fashion narratives, an archetype of a woman consistently surfaces, acting as both an enigma and a reflection of profound personal nuances.
Are there any recurring themes or concepts that you often explore in your fashion photography, and what draws you to these particular ideas?
"I identify my photography as tense, surrealistic, otherworldly, and ephemeral. I'm drawn to the same idea of a woman: strong, mysteriously magnetic, cool-headed, and unreachable. I meet her in every story I shoot. Who is this woman? Could it be my cold mother? You know—much to dig into here."
Bohdan's delineation of his work – with descriptors like "tense, surrealistic, otherworldly, and ephemeral" – evokes images that dance on the edges of reality, delving into spaces beyond the mundane. Central to this otherworldly tapestry stands a consistent feminine figure: a paradigm of strength, enigma, and captivating aloofness. This recurring muse, seemingly an interplay of allure and detachment, might be rooted in deep-seated memories, perhaps reflective of past familial ties, as intimated by his ponderings on a "cold mother." This confluence of personal experiences and artistic endeavours offers a glimpse into Bohdan's layered psyche, showcasing how intimate reverberations can intricately shape and magnify one's creative expressions.
ON: MODERN FASHION
Fashion, forever in flux, requires its denizens to continually adjust their sails, harnessing the winds of change. Keeping pace with the metamorphosing trends isn't merely about tracking them; it's an exercise in discerning the current societal pulse, while simultaneously casting an anticipatory gaze into the horizon.
How do you stay updated with the latest trends and developments in the fashion industry, and how do you incorporate them into your work while maintaining your unique perspective?
"Nowadays we don’t need to put any effort to stay updated. We are surrounded by information like never before. In my case, fashion shows and campaigns are my main source. I observe how it transforms from one form to another and immediately try to associate it with the state of society, the world, and my own vision, in order to understand why we need this exactly today. Usually, I feel many trends in advance, but it seems to me it happens to us all because that's how the world works—it gives us feedback on ourselves."
In Bohdan's perspective, the omnipresence of information in our digital era shapes our viewpoints, sometimes in ways we might not even consciously perceive. But rather than being a passive receptor, Bohdan critically engages, linking fashion trends to larger societal shifts, global dynamics, and personal introspections. This nuanced approach, which often allows him to preemptively sense upcoming trends, showcases his deep immersion in the fashion world. His belief that the world reflects our internalities suggests a profound interplay between individuality and collective ethos. In Bohdan's navigation of the fashion zeitgeist, he stands as both a sentinel and a seer, intuitively channelling and contributing to the evolving sartorial symphony.
ON: ECHOES OF THE SELF
The vast canvas of creative inspirations often varies among artists, with some gazing outwardly towards the world's tangible beauty and others embarking on introspective voyages within. For Bohdan, this inward journey reveals a reservoir of self-reflection and emotional exploration, positioning his personal experiences as the bedrock of his artistic endeavours.
Outside of fashion, what other sources of inspiration influence your photography, whether it's art, music, literature, or any other form of creative expression?
"To be honest, I have always been sceptical of this question. There is nothing specific. I love visual arts, sculpture, and electro-music. But I manifest evanescence on the fingertips. So literally I can catch the sparkle and blaze it out. I inspire myself—I am lost and found in the labyrinth of my own veins."
In his reflections, Bohdan hints at a nuanced relationship with inspiration. While he appreciates external forms of artistic expression, it's the fleeting, momentary sensations—those transient sparkles—that truly kindle his creativity. His description of himself as navigating the "labyrinth of his veins" paints a vivid picture of an artist perpetually in communion with his own essence, experiences, and emotions. This constant interplay between self-discovery and artistic creation ensures that each of Bohdan's works stands as a deeply personal testament to his inner world.
ON: ARTISTIC INTEGRITY AND COMMERCIAL APPEAL
Fashion photography presents a unique theatre where raw, artistic expression intersects with the exacting demands of commerce. Here, the camera isn't just a vessel for the soul's musings but also a conduit for brand stories and market-driven narratives. Harmonizing these seemingly divergent aspirations is a dance of finesse, a choreography that Bohdan has mastered through a philosophy rooted in authenticity and adaptability.
As a fashion photographer, how do you find a balance between expressing your artistic vision and satisfying the commercial demands and expectations of brands and clients?
"Generally, I hate the idea of the verb 'must.' When I reached my 18th birthday, I swore to myself that I would never ever waste a dime or a second of myself on anything that wasn’t a matter of my own interest or inspiration. I connect easily to a project if it’s thrilling me. It might be the brand philosophy, the product a brand sells, or the personality. My mind is flexible so I can dive all into the idea. I see the huge potential in the unknown and how I can look, grow and shine in that. The best result you get is when you truly love yourself and what you do in the process."
Bohdan's journey paints a vivid picture of an artist fiercely protective of his autonomy, a sentiment seeded in his early years. Rejecting the confines of external compulsions, he pledges allegiance to projects that align with his passions, whether they're defined by brand ethos, product allure, or magnetic collaborators. This malleability ensures that his work is not a mere transaction but an exploration, where even within commercial parameters, his signature touch prevails. At the heart of his ethos is a profound reverence for self and craft. It's this reverence that allows Bohdan to craft works that are not only commercially successful but also deeply imbued with his singular spirit.
ON: SELF-EXPLORATION
Fashion, while frequently viewed as the domain of exteriority, is often a deeply introspective space for those who immerse themselves in its realm. Beyond the texture, hue, and design lies a labyrinth of personal narratives, societal reflections, and cultural commentaries. For Bohdan, fashion isn't merely an occupation; it's an odyssey—a continuous journey of self-discovery and societal observation.
What does fashion mean to you and how does it play a role in your work?
"I adore couture. High fashion is a form of art I appreciate to the bones. I like to observe when 'the dress becomes a manifest' and the way of expression. I love this multiplayer-ness of deep sense running through collections. I love to see how fashion influences everything around us: social life and it helps us to explore new in ourselves. So if my work is fashion, my life is definitely too. Even we leave the commercial aspect aside. I do photography because I am investigating myself, and my authenticity, but the biggest fashion trend now is to be yourself, isn't it?"
For Bohdan, haute couture isn't just the pinnacle of fashion; it's the epitome of artistic expression. Each ensemble, in his eyes, is not just cloth and thread but a manifest—a statement carrying weight and wisdom. He finds beauty in the multi-layered narratives woven through fashion lines, observing their societal impacts and the self-revelations they offer. His work, interwoven with fashion, reflects the fabric of his life, emphasizing the inextricable link between the two. Yet, amidst all these reflections, Bohdan highlights an enduring truth: that today's preeminent fashion statement is one's authenticity, mirroring his personal quest for genuine self-expression within the dynamic world of fashion.
ON: GUIDING PRINCIPLES
The realm of fashion photography is as much a strategic battleground as it is a canvas for creativity. Aspiring maestros embarking on this journey often seek a compass, a beacon to illuminate their path amidst the overwhelming vistas of established brilliance.
What advice would you give to aspiring fashion photographers who are looking to make their mark in the industry, based on your own experiences and journey?
"To explore the world around them, to be attentive and sensitive to their own experiences. That gives authenticity, which the world desperately needs. Also, I’d say as in - 'Fundamentals of Chess 1883' - 'The only way to get smarter is by playing a smarter opponent.' Sometimes we are opponents to ourselves and art is like an endless chess game - you have to trick even yourself to find a way, to grow, to win."
From Bohdan's sagacious words, a clear directive emerges for budding photographers: to be authentic, to be deeply observant, and to value their individual experiences. By advocating the cultivation of authenticity, he underscores its timeless relevance in a world often veering towards the superficial. Yet, his allusion to the game of chess provides a nuanced dimension to his advice. It hints at the importance of perpetual self-challenge and introspection, suggesting that the greatest milestones are achieved when one confronts and surpasses internal barriers. Through his lens, the artistic journey becomes a relentless chess match of self against self, where victory lies in constant evolution and introspective strategy.
Bohdan Bohdanov's journey in the realm of fashion photography is a testament to the intricate confluence of personal narratives, artistic aspirations, and societal reflections. Through the lens of his experiences and insights, we've traversed not just the technicalities of his craft, but the profound emotional and philosophical underpinnings that anchor his work. His narrative echoes the universal struggles and triumphs of artists everywhere — the ceaseless quest for authenticity, the dance of passion with pragmatism, and the undying drive to communicate, to express, to resonate.
Book:
This editorial is featured in our book: N°Fashion for Fall/Winter '23.
Continue reading:
For more conversation pieces, continue reading in our section: The Conversation.
For conversations with photographers, we recommend reading:
Painting the world with Mar+Vin
Romain Laprade on Nostalgia
Magical Escapes with Petecia Lefawnhawk